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Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 157
  • Content Quality: Medium
45

Seasonality

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Summary

Historic crag, home to the Frankenjura's first route in the lower 9th grade UIAA, "Sautanz", by Kurt Albert †. Mostly vertical pocket climbing.

Description

Fantastic crag with lots of classics from the golden era of Frankenjura sport climbing.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Park at the hiker's parking lot at the northern end of the street "An der Martinswand". From the parking lot, follow a broad path to the west, which leads you directly to the east face of the crag in two minutes.

GPS: 11.32905, 49.76864

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Direct finish to "Danzer Gedenkweg".

FFA: Daniel Frischbier

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981

Closed

Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)

Closed

Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1986

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981

FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981

FFA: Michael Schlotter, 1984

FFA: Bernhard Thum

well protected

The first bolt is quite high.

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