Ascents in Pavian

Climbed it as described in the oldest Frankenjura guidebook, starting with the narrow chimney of "Südriss", which is already quite something. The actual traverse is a delightful journey along obvious structures, starting with a slanted ramp up to the ledge of the various "Talwand" routes and further on to the edge of it. We finished up directly to the summit from here via "Linke Talwand" instead of doing the rope tension traverse into the cave of "Nordwand".

(as second pitch of "Nordwand", without the start through the easy chimney.)

Nice, juggy arête. The holds on the west side of the needle were completely iced up, which made it a bit spicy. On the other hand, the chossy blocks were frozen tight, so there was no danger of falling rocks. :-D #jahreserste2023

Fantastic, quite unique climb, best done in two pitches. The first is delightful 3d climbing in a deep dihedral, then a short wall leads into a deep washed out tunnel with a belay anchor. From here there are two variants. Either back out into the wall and up left, or through the tunnel. We chose the second variant, which leads to a wide, scary, unprotectable chimney. People below 1,70 m be warned! It's best to stay on the north side of the chimney. Just below the massive roof block, you can shove yourself onto a ledge and get up into the wind gap below the summit. Here, yet another unusual (for the Frankenjura) challenge awaits you in the form of a wide step over the gap. Even harder today due to the iced up holds, but certainly adventurous even when warm and dry. Basically, pitch 2 in this variant is almost free solo, so you should be sure about your skills. #jahreserste2023

The climbing itself is actually quite good, but I can't really recommend the route because of the two big, loose blocks in the crux. They can't really be avoided and you need to use them as both handholds and footholds. If one of them comes off, a helmet won't help your belayer. The top section is basically the finish of "Südschlucht", which is nice. The bridging to the summit is actually quite challenging (and the important jug dissolves more and more). #jahreserste2021

A heap of choss. At least the bolts seem to be in solid rock. Peculiar little needle. The south arête seems to be more worthwhile, but the start was wet today. #jahreserste2021

The climbing is actually not bad, and pretty tough. It's relatively chossy, though, as seems to be the whole bloody rock. Hard section from the second to the third bolt and an even harder one after the first bolt after the big ledge, which I almost didn't manage to do.

Pretty nice route, but one should be a bit careful with all the big hollow blocks along the way. Cool slab followed by interesting holds in the upper part.