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Summary

A massive 40 m north face in the middle of Pottenstein.

Description

Grades range from 6+ to 9 and almost all the climbs deserve stars. A lot of the climbs are by Stefan Löw.

The crag is not on but above private property. The owners are afraid of rocks hitting, so be really careful and watch loose rock!

Access issues

This crag is usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

Approach

Drive into Pottenstein and park reasonably near the turnoff towards Waldcafé; the crag is hard to miss. GPS: 11.41383, 49.77079

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2000

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2004

Despite the name it's not the longest route on the wall. But possibly the best!

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1993

A fantastic journey, forward in time for amazing movement, great position, variety, exposition and maybe backwards for the shabby bolts used here.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1994

FFA: Johannes Gabriel & Detlef Schagen, 1992

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Activity

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