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Summary

Impressive lines, good rock quality and the home of Germany's first 10/10+, "Ghettoblaster".

Description

The Rabenfels (Raven's Rock), a beautiful, cylindrical tower, offers good climbing in a sunny south face from 6- ("Herbstzauber") to 10/10+ ("Ghettoblaster").

All the routes in the south face can be recommended. The most enjoyable way to reach the summit (most of the routes end just below the mushroom-shaped block at the top) is probably the second length of "Robert Lukas Gedenkweg", which, in an exposed traverse, leads under the roof to the left into easy terrain.

Less popular and with far less protection are the lines in the east and north face, the latter of which offers the easiest routes to the summit.

Access issues

This crag is usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

Approach

From the street from Neuhaus/Pegnitz to Ranna, turn right into a small forestal road just after the hamlet "Lehnerhof" and just before the small chapel. Follow the road for about 1 km and you will reach a hiker's parking lot.

From the parking, just follow the road east (signs towards Rabenfels) for 750 m.

GPS: 11.59904, 49.64298

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

History

History timeline chart

  • Excavations show that the rock has been used as cult site as early as the Bronze Age.
  • In modern times, the rock has seen ascents only as late as the 1950s.
  • The rock became famous with Wolfgang Güllich's first ascent of "Ghettoblaster" in 1986, for some time the hardest route in Germany.
  • In the year 2000, the trees around the south face were cut down.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Sven König, 1994

Set: Volker Roth, 1999

1 6+ 28m
2 7- 10m

FA: G. Fuchs & A. Heinrich, 1967

FA: R. Holzberger & A. Heinrich, 1950

FFA: Martin Grulich

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 1991

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: Karsten Oelze

FA: Oskar Bühler, 1963

FA: A. Heinrich, 1950

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Activity

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