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Summary

High tower with compact rock. Classic north face and lots of good, hard routes in the upper grade range.

Description

Many generations of climbers have contributed to the climbing history of this high tower with its compact, smooth surface. The first challenge, reaching the summit, had been achieved by throwing a rope over the top in 1909, but already a few years later, a now-famous duo of climbers Georg Vollrath and Toni Rockstroh made their way up the "Nordwand", traversing in from the uphill side. The direct line from the bottom, "Direkte Nordwand" was established 40 years later by Karl Thon, but in the meantime, the same ledge had been reached by Hans Teufel, climbing the fierce-looking and aptly named "Teufelsriss".

The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz.

In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.

Access issues

This crag is usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

Approach

Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left; after a few meters, a steep path on the right will lead you to the bottom of the crag. Alternatively, you can follow the road further to a junction, turn right and right again after a few meters for a gentler approach.

GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: M. Bock, 2011

A direct start for The Last Rites.

FFA: Markus Bock, 2011

Starts on House of Shock, goes left and finishes on The Elder Statesman

FFA: Markus Bock, 2014

FFA: M. Bock, 2012

FFA: M. Bock, 2002

FFA: Manfred Eichhorn, 1988

FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912

1 5 10m
2 5 15m
3 7- 10m

Start like "Nordwand" (first pitch and start of second pitch). At the second bolt in the north face, traverse to the right into the little cave and diagonally up over a bolt to belay at the arête. The third pitch is an unprotected 6m traverse to the right to a bolt, then straight up to the summit.

FA: Heiner Hohlig, 1930

FFA: Franz Hefner, 1986

FA: Karl Thon & Bernhard Meyer, 1955

FFA: Norbert Bätz, 1991

used to be an old Flipper Fitz Boulder Problem and was graded (Fb 7a)

FFA: Sepp Gschwendtner, 1983

you can add a sitstart, named Black Angel (Fb 7b+)

FFA: M. Scheel, 1985

FFA: M. Bock, 2011

FA: Hans Teufel, 1928

FFA: H. Seidel, 1989

FFA: B. Faber, 1996

The left of the two slabs and well worthwhile! Don't worry about the space to the chain, if you manage to sneak your way up the wall you will be cruising the top! The name "Ostwand" is a historical mistake that has made its way into many guidebooks.

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