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Schauertaler Turm

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 15
  • Aka: Langenstein
12

Seasonality

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Summary

Slim spire above the roofs of Streitberg with long routes in the intermediate grades, mostly on small crimps and slopers.

Description

A tall tower, sometimes called "Langenstein" – maybe for its phallic appearance – opposing the more opulent and famous "Streitberger Schild". Quite neglected by climbers, even though it features some really long and interesting routes in intermediate grades; the routes are quite technical and feel hard for the grade, though, which might explain this circumstance. For those who want to easily reach the beautiful summit, "Obere Südwand", one of the easier routes from the short uphill side, is highly recommended.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

From B470, drive into the center of Streitberg and follow the signs towards Binghöhle/Störnhof. Just after the last house of Streitberg, there is a parking lot for Binghöhle on the left. From the parking, follow the path towards Binghöhle until the uphill side of the tower appears on your left. A steep trail leads down left to the downhill side.

GPS: 11.21691, 49.81328

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The bolts have been removed.

FFA: Peter Müller

From the ledge directly up through the wall left of the arête.

FA: Burkhard Müller, 2010

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