Help
16

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

This north-east face has the most to offer for climbers looking for routes in the 9th grade UIAA and above. Don't miss the easier classic namesake traverse, though!

Description

The crag consists of two massive overhangs with high-end routes on the left ("Riders of Doom") and right ("I Bleed Black"), and a relatively vertical, sometimes even slabby part in the middle.

The old traverse goes up to the beginning of the right overhang and then pulls out diagonally left under the roof and on top of the left overhang to a belay, crossing the popular 9th grade routes like "Totenbrett" and "Gelber Blaser" in the process.

At the left end, just avoiding the roof, are the two easiest non-traverse lines, "Leichenschmaus" and "Abgesang"; the latter has to be protected with nuts and cams.

The far right route of the crag is, interestingly enough, another traverse ("Letzte Instanz"), going up around the right overhang and traversing to the left along its edge.

There is lots of loose rock in the lower part of most of the routes, but the rock quality gets better with the height.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Doos towards Behringersmühle. After 1.4 km, there is a small parking bay on your right, directly opposite a lonely house on the other side of the river. From the right end of the bay, a forest road leads uphill. Follow it for a few meters and then branch off right onto another forest road, which leads directly to the crag.

GPS: 11.29973, 49.80217

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995

FFA: Holger Längner, 2009

FFA: Markus Bock, 2013

FFA: Markus Bock, 2012

FFA: Kevin Schatz, 2017

FFA: Kai Bunke, 2012

FFA: Kai Bunke, 2012

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1999

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2012

FA: Julius Bär, 1932

FFA: Markus Bock, 2013

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Schiefer Tod.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文