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24

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Shady crag with short routes and boulders in the range of grade 7 and 8 UIAA.

Access issues

Parking between Stadelhofen and Sachsendorf seems to be a touchy subject.

Approach

Park in Stadelhofen (parking is forbidden along the road between Stadelhofen and Sachsendorf; rumour has it that cars got hauled off in the past). Walk east out of the village towards Sachsendorf. After a few hundred meters, where the forest almost touches the road, cross the narrow stretch of field and follow a small path to the crag.

GPS: 11.35181, 49.75426

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FA: Christoph Reichert, 2012

FA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

Sit start from the huge jugs is 6A.

FA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

Extension of "Fuck" over 2 bolts. Makes more sense to climb it as a highball.

FFA: Timo Marschner, 2006

A highball (maybe not even); funny there would be 3 ringbolts wasted on this when you have so many climbs in Franken where you cannot safely clip the first bolt which sits higher than all of this …

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Kim Marschner, 2015

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FA: Andreas Falkner, 1994

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Timo Marschner, 2006

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

Marked with tiny green dots.

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Stadelhofener Dunkelkammer.

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