Steinberg, Sport climbing

UIAA

Map

7 4 3 9 1 2 8 5 6

1 Südseite-Vordere Wände 2 Slapshot 3 Südseite-Hintere Wände 4 Ostseite 5 Steinbeißer 6 Fieberkurve 7 Nordseite 8 Westseite - Neuland 9 Westseite

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Large area with many smaller crags. Routes in all grades offer climbing possibilities throughout the year.

Description

The Steinberg is a hill east of the village Königstein featuring numerous smaller crags with routes in all grades.

It is basically possible to climb here all year: the south facing sectors, especially "Südseite", are viable in Winter. The sectors around "Schluchtwände" are great from spring until autumn, and for the hot days, just walk around to the crags facing north.

Access issues

Parts of this crag are usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Teile dieses Felsens sind üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

Approach

Exit the village Königstein to the south towards Holnstein. After 500 meters, go left and up the hill to the small hamlet Breitenstein. There is a small parking lot on the left (49.5984593, 11.6481377).

From the parking, walk north on a forestal road (passing the hamlet Breitenstein on the east) up to a point where it makes a 90 degrees right turn. Continue straight on a smaller path until you reach the forest. From here, the path diverges to reach the different sectors:

For the south facing sectors, follow the path slightly to the right. The north and west faces are reached by going straight and then left. See the descriptions of the respective sectors for details.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
Don't leave toilet paper.
Pick up rubbish.
No unnecessary noise.
No camp fire and bivvy.
Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
No publishing of boulder blocks.