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Description

Fantastic endurance climbing on good rock, with some very hard classics on the right side.

Access issues

This crag is usually closed from February 1 until June 30. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Februar bis 30. Juni gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

Approach

Drive in Pottenstein to the turnoff for Waldcafé, park here (since the road to Waldcafe is private & for customers only). Walk towards Waldcafé (about 500m) and cross the creek on the right on a small bridge. Now turn right on the path for 100m, and sharp left uphill for another 100m. you can see the crag high up on the right, scramble up the path for 200m . GPS: 11.42046, 49.76947

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1998

joins "Bis zum bitteren Ende"

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2008

FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2016

Starts with "König der Lüfte" in the roof and breaks out left to join "Bis zum bitteren Ende".

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2006

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1998

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995

good climbing but some painful holds if you've got fat fingers..

FFA: Schrüfer

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1990

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995

Without rock … the steep direct start to "GoGo".

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2008

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2004

Extrem weite Hakenabstände im oberen Teil!

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1990

The route actually starts from the ledge and is 7+ from there. The start is 8+.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1990

Direct Start to "Stück für Stück"

FFA: Kerstin Meyer, 2008

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2006

FFA: Arthur Korte, 2005

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1990

FA: Oskar Bühler

FFA: Stefan Löw

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2013

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2007

FFA: Werner Thon, 1994

FFA: Markus Bock, 2002

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