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UIAA

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Einige speckige Stellen, denn der Fels ist aus guten Gründen häufiger besucht: 50m vom Parkplatz (Camping verboten). Ebener Stand. 5m neben dem Fels münden zwei kleine Karstquellen in die Wiesent. Dahinter große Wiese. 2 Höhlen ca 50m rechts/nördlich vom Kletterbereich. Wochenends viele Passanten/Wanderer.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

GPS: 11.18854, 49.97018

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

Startet ca 20m links von 'Boschanker', etwas den Hang hoch.

Knapp rechts der Kante einsteigen, nach links zum 2. Haken von "Boschanker" und darüber hinaus queren und links aufwärts zum Umlenker.

FA: Karl Thon, 1961

Vom zweiten Haken des Quellwegs direkt/senkrecht über zwei Haken zum Umlenker.

Start rechts der Kante, am 2. Haken rechts aufwärts über weiteren Haken zum Umlenker.

FA: Willi Geus, 1934

FA: Martin Kistner, 1933

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