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Seasonality

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Summary

In the Sun all day, in winter even the base of the cliff gets sun.

Description

Long and exciting face climbing in a great setting, only the closeness to the road distracts a bit.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park in Tüchersfeld at the designated Hikers-Parking. Walk back down to the B470, and head upriver towards the campsite for about 100m. As the walking track starts to your left there is a steep little path up to the bottom of the crag, 50m. GPS: 11.36349, 49.78489

Where to stay

Campsite in Tüchersfeld, or another Campsite at Bärenschlucht.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

No one really knows anything about this one, we wonder if it even exists …

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1996

Start on the left of the crag as for Ruck Zuck, unclipping the first bolt after you reached the arete will reduce rope drag. Originally the route led up the top of RZ but was straightened out by the first ascender 10 years later.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1985

Somewhat strange to find such a short line at a crag like this.

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2001

Starts with the following 5 routes but stays left right after the start. It meets "Marathon 85" at the 3rd bolt; then straight up.

FA: Stefan Löw, 1996

FA: Stefan Löw, 1989

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1989

Starts with the others, then the middle line through the rooflet and leftwards to the chains of Dauerbrenner.

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1989

FA: Stefan Löw, 1989

Up the crack of Hardcore Biking and then left to join Durchzug.

FA: Stefan Löw, 1985

The line on the right, past the crack in the middle and straight up.

FA: Stefan Löw, 1996

FA: Oskar Bühler

The rightmost line at the crag can be protected with a wire before the high first bolt. It steeply crosses "Alter Weg" at the top and finishes at an anchor to the left.

Ends at the top of alter Weg without the exiting finish of the original line. a tad easier.

One single route on the backside of a freestanding tower 80 m to the right of the main crag. // Einzelne Route an freistehendem Turm (Autist), 80m rechts der Tüchersfelder Wand.

FA: Andrew Harman & Matthias Stöcker, 2011

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Activity

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