Legendary crag directly at the road between Neuhaus an der Pegnitz and Plech.


Very popular crag with a myriad of good routes with most of the time sensible protection in various styles. Short, bouldery routes with sometimes overhanging start in the left part ('Linker Teil'); mostly vertical routes in the middle ('Mittlerer Teil') and the famous bulge/overhang to the right ('Rechter Teil') with classics like 'Entsafter' and 'Dampfhammer'.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list


Parking is provided directly at the crag (49.6345778, 11.5308468). Just grab your gear and walk to the wall.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.


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Grade Route

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: P. Harter, 1989

FA: R. Buchner, 1968

FA: A. Heinrich, 1967

A well protected chimney.

FA: Andreas Kubin, 1980

FA: Finn Fischer & Yul Fischer, 2005

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

Die ersten zwei Haken der Saftpresse, dann geradehoch zu eigenem 3. Haken. 5. Haken der Saftpresse mit einhängen und rechtshaltend zu eigenem 5., 6. Haken und Umlenkhaken von 100% Direktsaft.

Set by Thomas Hoffmann, 2010

FFA: Thomas Hoffmann, 3 Apr 2011

FFA: John Bachar, 1981

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Consider preclipping the first bolt with a clipstick.

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: John Bachar, 1981

The test piece in this grade. A classic 6b+, pumpy as hell!

FFA: Norbert Sandner, 1980

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