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Bodensteiner Klippen

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Description

The Bodensteiner Klippen are located in the south of the Hainberg ridge of mountains, only several kilometers north-west of the Harz Mountains.

It is the largest concetration of sandstone in Lower Saxony. Most cliffs are not very high, routes are usually around 10m long. The 'Wachtmeister' is an exception with 20m.

The original climbing style is traditional climbing like in Sächsische Schweiz. You have to build your own protection. For the soft sandstone the saxon material (slings with knots, UFOs) is appropriate. guidebook "Paules Kletterbibel Bodensteiner Klippen", ISBN 978-3980647335

On some cliffs like Südlicher Steinbruch or Rechter Steinbruch modern sportclimbing has arrived. guidebooks/sources?

And third but least bouldering is practiced. You will find chalked blocks around in the woods. guidebook "Harz Bloc" (it would be nice if somebody would add the boulders here)

Access issues

The Hainberg, and therefore the Bodensteiner Klippen, are a Natura2000 nature protection area, highest protection the EU can offer, so mind your step. Always check regulations, closures and zoning:

Due to a dispute with the owner, climbing is only allowed in the district of Goslar (southern area). Everything south of 'Strauchköpfe' is part of Goslar. Check the links above for more information.

For your own safety: On some cliffs someone sawed off the bolts. Check the conditions of the bolts before use.

Also, don't argue with local hunters, you might get shot.

Approach

The best way to approach is from Bodenstein. There are two parking spots:

  1. Approximately 1km west, in the direction of the A7.

  2. Last street on the left side before leaving town in the direction of Neuwallmoden.

From there just follow the forest roads north.

Ethic

Please:

  • do not climb wet sandstone¹
  • do not use chalk²

  • no smoking, no wildfire

  • do not remove any plants etc
  • the forest is not a toilet
  • do not leave any waste

  • avoid the district of Wolfenbüttel⁴

¹Sandstone absorbs water and dissolves the clay inside the rock which holds the quartz together. Do not climb after rain, let the rock dry for at least 2 sunny sommer days, otherwise it will just break.

²Its hygroscopic property also makes the holds slick, since it will not wash out - it clogs the surface of the sandstone, the stone can no longer dry. AND we don't want to run foul with the owner and forester.

⁴See "Access issues" above.

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