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Description
The Okertal is easily the largest climbing area in the Harz Mountains and second largest in Northern Germany. The rock is mostly granite, but some Hornfels and Slate/lydite (Kieselschiefer) can be found too. For the most part the routes are single pitch routes, but also nice multi-pitch routes e.g. 'Großer Kurfürst', Adlerklippen.
Be aware that the Okertal is mainly trad climbing, you should bring nuts and cams.
Guidebooks:
Rockclimbing: Harz Rocks 1 (Westharz/Okertal), (outdated: Paules Kletterbibel Westharz)
Bouldering: Harzblock
Additional Links:
Access issues
The Okertal is a nature protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet). Parts are Natura2000 area and some cliffs may be closed from February to July due to nesting falcons.
Approach
<5 min
All cliffs are accessible within 5 to 45 minutes from the B498.
Car: Parking spots are very limited within the valley. You might consider using the parking lots at the start and end of the Okertal:
Public transportation: From the train station Goslar-Oker you can use the bus to Waldhaus. From the train station Bad Harzburg you can use the bus to Kästeklippen.
See: Network map
Where to stay
Hotels:
Since Goslar and the Harz are a tourist destination, you can choose from a variety of hotels, but there is also one directly in the valley:
Camping:
Youth hostel:
Other:
Ethic
Please stop wild camping in the Okertal!
Please stop making barbecues, it smells, it starts wild fires, it leaves waste!
All that endangers our permission to climb here!
Chalk:
It is allowed, BUT clean up your marks. As most of the stone is dark, it is much to visible. We like to search for holds ourselves.
Bolts/Anchors:
Most easier routes do not have bolts, only harder ones are sparsely bolted. Anchors are single glued in steel rings in most cases.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): A. Hacke
Date: 2019
Oker Valley ist the biggest granite climbing area in the Harz Mountains. This guidebook describes all of the 106 crags with over 1280 routes in the Oker Valley.
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| 4 | ★★★ Südwestkante | ||
| 6- | ★★★ Nordriß | ||
| 6 | ★★★ Ostwand | ||
| 7+ | ★★★ Kopf Oder Zahl | ||
| 6B+ | ★★★ Harz IV | ||
| 9+ | ★★★ Nasentropfenweg | ||
| 7C | ★★★ Billy Boy XXL | ||
| 7C+/8A | ★★★ Dai-Shogun | ||
| 8A | ★★★ Lynx |
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Schlafender Löwe - Schlafender Löwe 27.04.2020.jpg
EinHeiko at Feigenbaumkanzel - Feigenbaumkanzel_EnglischerWeg.jpg