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Schaffelberg

28
UIAA

Seasonality

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Summary

Good intermediate crag with a nice view of Oberammergau to your west. Plenty of bolts and all sport climbing.

Description

Solid rock with squillions of bolts. Interesting and varied climbing. Bring a brush!

Access issues

Medium fitness advised for the walk up carrying gear, food and water. 60m rope advised for one or two of the routes.

Approach

Walk south from the edge of town (near Campingplatz) on the Western/mountain side of the road. Stay on the forest tracks for a hundred metres or so until you get to a four way cross roads which is roughly at the height of nearby buildings to the north. Turn left to head directly up the hill for a good 20-30 minutes. After many hairpin bends you'll get to the crag, starting with steep routes on your left.

You can park (for free) further south opposite the Bahrenhohle crag, then walk north until you get to the crossroads on the trail. Easy enough to find.

Where to stay

Campingplatz Obermergau is within walking distance, has all the amenities and free WiFi! There are plenty of hotels within the town itself.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

New line just left of Auszeit, nice climbing with a defined crux halfway.

Just to the left of the lovely shady tree on the upper section of path. Straight up for 10m then trends left through a corner to bolts on the left hand section of wall. Permadraw screwgate anchor.

Start on mega juggy rail, straight up for 10m then trend left towards a blank corner and wonderful roofy move to finish.

1 6+ 20m
2 8- 7m

Straight up pretty much, 20m to first anchor. Harder 7m pitch above grovelling under a crack to second anchor.

Stiff bouldery start to wonderful jug. Really solid cruising on jugs with fun and interesting moves to anchor just below cave.

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