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Bauerlochturm Guide

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 3

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Peter Colditz

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bauerlochturm 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.918347, 14.235781

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Überholspur

Vom Beginn der Eisenklammern der Häntzschelstiege links Kamin innen an Band vorbei, oben bei Riss zum 1. Absatz vom "Alten Weg". Diesen zG.

FA: 26 Nov 2021

II Trad
3 Überfälle VI Trad
4 Südwestweg VIIa Trad
5 Goldener Schnitt VIIIc Trad
6 Messer IXa Trad
7 Skalpell IXc Trad
8 Westweg

with support VIIa

VIIb Trad
9 Unwetterverschneidung

with support VIIa

VIIb Trad
10 Leichter Schauer IXa Trad
11 Blütenfest IXb Trad
12 Eintrittskarte IXa Trad
13 Blütenfest Ausstiegsvariante IXb Trad
14 Alte Bauernregel Xa Trad
15 Heureka Xc Trad
16 Bauernkrieg Xa Trad
17 Nordweg IV Trad
18 Schwacher Trost VIIIa Trad
19 Bergweg II 1 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Alter Weg Trad
Überholspur Trad
II/1 Bergweg Trad
IV Nordweg Trad
VI Überfälle Trad
VIIa Südwestweg Trad
VIIb Unwetterverschneidung Trad
Westweg Trad
VIIIa Schwacher Trost Trad
VIIIc Goldener Schnitt Trad
IXa Eintrittskarte Trad
Leichter Schauer Trad
Messer Trad
IXb Blütenfest Trad
Blütenfest Ausstiegsvariante Trad
IXc Skalpell Trad
Xa Alte Bauernregel Trad
Bauernkrieg Trad
Xc Heureka Trad
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