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Description

Klettern am Sockel ist verboten. / Climbing at the foot of the cliff is forbidden.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Descent notes

Abseile: 25m

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: 1873

Vom Einstieg "Alter Weg" den Kamin außenhaltend hochspreizen auf den Klemmblock.

A.F.: IXb

A.F.: VIIIb

A.F.: VIIIb

with support IXc

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIIa

with support VIIc

A.F.: Xc

FA: Paula Scharfe & Johannes Höntsch, 26 Aug 2018

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Jürgen Höfer, 1988

FA: Michael Scharnweber, 2005

"Edelweißweg" 3m hoch und links Wand, Rippen und Dach (5R). Wand rechts und Riss zG.

FA: Ales Prochazka, 2020

A.F.: IXa

FA: Fritz Eske, G. Kalkbrenner, H. Heine & G. Warmuth, 1965

FA: Harry Rost, 1948

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Manfred Vogel, 2002

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIc

Vom Einstieg der "Ostkante" Wand leicht linkshaltend (R) zu Band (rechts 2.R der "Ostkante"). Wand (3.R) leicht rechtshaltend zu 4.R. #ausgiebigunterstuetzt Wand (5.R) zG.

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Lamm, G. Ludewig & H. Maatz, 1973

A.F.: IXa

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIIc

A.F.: Xa

FA: Joachim Friedrich, Jürgen Höfer & Thomas Türpe, 1992

A.F.: VIIIb

brüchig / brittle

A.F.: VIIIa

FA: Friedrich Gerbing, Oscar Schuster & W. Schuster, 1901

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

FA: Chris-Jan Stiller & M. Petters, 2009

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIIb

A.F.: IXc

5m links von "Gerader Weg" (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) Hangelrippe zu R. Linksgeneigte Hangelrippe zu Band. Rechts queren zu kleiner Höhlung (darüber 2.R "Gerader Weg"). #ausgiebigunterstuetzt rechts zum "Bröckelweg". Diesen 4m hoch und Kamin mit rissartigem Einstieg zG.

FA: Fritz Eske, A. Reimer, G. Walpert & K. Jäschke, 1959

A.F.: IXa

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIIc

A.F.: Xa

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2007

A.F.: Xa

A.F.: IXb

with support VIIc. 8m links der "Rübezahlstiege" linksgeneigten Riss und Wand zu R. (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) Wand zu Band. Re queren, Riss und Kamin in Winkel zG.

FA: Gerhard Walpert, W. Schlenkrich, G. Entrich, K. Jäschke & H. Walpert, 1959

FA: Thomas Willenberg, M. Schiffke, A. Täube & H. Tesch, 1991

A.F.: Xc

FA: Tobias Wolf & Chris-Jan Stiller, 2008

A.F.: Xa

3m links vom "Fliegelweg" geneigte Wand zu Absatz. (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) Riss (R) zG.

FA: Fritz Wießner & E. Roßberg, 1924

A.F.: IXa

FA: Stephan Herklotz & Falk Stephan, 2004

FA: Stephan Klotz & Falk Stephan, 2004

Vom großen Dach "Bismarckweg" bei R Rissdach rechts und Kamin zG.

Zu sehen in der Biwak-Sendung vom 2.7.14

FA: Steffen Roßburg & U. Lange, 1986

FA: Steffen Otto & Werner Schönlebe, 1984

AF IXc

FA: Rüdiger Helling, 1999

with support VIIb. 13m rechts von "Alter Weg" von Block (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) Hangelrippe zu R. Riss zu Band. Rechts queren, Rinne und Kamin zG.

FA: Werner Herrmann, M. Dietsche, F. Donner, A. Forberg & W. Georgi, 1936

A.F.: VIIIc

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