• Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 5



Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.



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Grade Route

FA: Werner Neumeister, 1955

FA: Frank Nimsch, F. Hergert, T. Glasewald, Birgit Glasewald & W. Hegert, 1984


AF VIIIb. Rechts der "Freundschaftshangel" von Block Wand (R) zum R der "Hangelei". Von links an Dachkante entlang (R) und einsetzende Kante (4.R) zum Absatz vom "Nordweg". Diesen zG.

FA: Jens Manka, 2008

Links der "Ostwand" Wand (3R), Kante, links Reibung (2R), rechtshaltend zG.

FA: Frank Wehner & Tino Tanneberger, 29 Mar 2019

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1991

with support VIIb


AF Xc. Topo. "Wasserspiele" 10m hoch und links Wand (5R) zu großem Band. Beliebig zG.

FA: Michael Scharnweber, 15 Nov 2020

with support VIIb

with support VIIc

FA: Carsten Rusch & W. Rusch, 1986

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