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Setzling

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Description

Special thanks for the topo to Frank Rainer Richter, Königstein

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

An der stumpfen SW-Kante zu Band (rechts in Loch Knotenschlinge). Links bei Einschnitt über Überhang zG.

FA: Lutz Kleinschmidt & D. Fichtner, 1985

Links vom „AW“ Rippe in Kamin etwa 7 m hoch. Übertritt und rechts queren zum „AW“.

FA: Peter Badzowsky & F. Sütterlin, 2 Apr 2016

Von W zwischen Turm und M auf VG. Wand rechtshaltend zG.

FA: Lutz Kleinschmidt & W. Liebold, 1985

In der N-Seite Rippe und Wand auf VG. Wie „O-Weg“ zG.

FA: Joachim Görner, M. Görner & P. Heuchert, 1985

Von O Kamin zwischen Turm und VG an Absatz vorbei zu Überhang. 1 m nach rechts und überh. Wand zG.

FA: Helmut Meschke & R. Habicht, 1985

AF VIIIa. An der überhängenden Ostkante (2R) zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 14 May 2016

In der Talseite (Südosten) bei Risseinschnitt über Überhang. Wand zu Band und über 2. Überhang zG.

FA: Tilo Steinborn & S. Pieper, 1985

In Mitte Südwand gerade zum Band "Alter Weg". Über Überhang direkt zG.

FA: Thomas Migge, J. Langer & H. Tscharke, 1988

Vom Massiv Sprung zG.

FA: Reinhard Habicht, 1985

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