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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

In der Nordwestseite Kamin zu großem Absatz. Auf Band nach rechts, Wand und linksgeneigte Riss zG.

FA: Oscar Schuster & F. Böhme, 1893

Rechts in der Südostwand (unterstützt) überhängende Wand, Rinne, Rippe und Kante (R) zG.

Topo. Now with additional ring acceptable protection.

2,5m links der "Bielakante" Hangelrisse über Überhang zu Band. Wand (2R) zG.

FA: Dieter Ulbrich, K. Jäschke & L. Petrich, 1979

Topo. Links in der Südostwand überhängenden Riss zu Band (darüber R). Auf diesem nach rechts ("Spritztour und "Bielakante" kreuzend) um die Ostkante und Wand rechtsansteigend zu Absatz. Linkshaltend an 2 Löchern vorbei und Ostkante zG.

FA: Horst Taubert & G. Göttlich, 1948

Topo. Now with 2 additional rings acceptable protection.

Vom Band (R) Wand gerade (R), oben bei Sanduhr rechtshaltend zG.

FA: Uwe Schulze, 1992

Südkante gerade zG.

Zwischen "Alter Weg" und "Nordwestweg" kurzen Riss und rechts Wand zu Absatz. Wand (R) zu Überhang (R) und zG.

FA: Jens Maschke, 17 Jun 2017

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