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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

In Nordseite mit Blöcken gefüllten Kamin zum Absatz. Über Stufen zG.

FA: 1880

FA: Rolf Seipelt, 1987

FA: Horst Bischoff, P. Haaser, K. Löwe, F. Gaudich, W. Friebe & M. Zimmermann, 1909

FA: Falk Heinicke, Dietmar Heinicke & F. Seifert, 1980

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, 1906

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1977

"Ostweg" bis vor Absatz und stumpfe Kante zG.

FA: 18 Jun 2019

Rechts von "Frechdachs" Wand (Ö.) und Kante (Ö) zu Absatz. Wandstufe zG.

FA: 18 Jun 2019

FA: Steffen Neunert & H. Neunert, 1988

FA: Herbert Reinhold, 1921

"Ostriss" 5m hoch und links Wand, teils bei stumpfer Kante, (2R) zG.

FA: 22 Aug 2018

AF VIIa

FA: Lothar Richter, F. Richter, P. Krell, U. Thomsen & R. Krell, 1977

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, Martha Pötzsch & R. Pötzsch, 1913

AF VIIc

FA: Karlheinz Güntner & G. Ludewig, 1966

AF VIIc

FA: Daniel Mauthe, Ilka Wehlte, G. Zill & A. Knirrnschild, 1998

FA: Erich Trautmann, 1908

FA: 1890

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1976

FA: Dieter Ulbrich, Martina Ulbrich, T. Preußmann & Dagmar Schneider, 1981

FA: Paul Löschner, 1906

FA: Ernst Heuer, W. Kadner, K. Richter, W. Unger, G. Rönisch & W. Lösche, 1936

FA: Falk Hergert & U. Schumacher, 1987

Von unten Kante und links Rissspur zu 1.R. der "Südkante". Diese zG.

FA: 6 Sep 2018

AF VIIc

FA: Günter Bach, M. Wolsch, J. Grämer & W. Heinrich, 1984

FA: Mathis Szymczak, 1999

FA: Rudolf Fehrmann, 1906

with support VIIb

FA: Helmut Mehnert, W. Schäfer & G. Schöne, 1975

AF VIIb

FA: Bernd Claudius, F. Schuster & M. John, 1999

AF IXa

FA: Uwe Schulze & F. Seifert, 1998

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Pötsch, 1913

FA: Werner Göcker & S. Patke, 1969

FA: Peter Krüger & J. Zeibig, 1981

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Pötzsch, 1913

FA: Dietmar Heinicke & F. Heinicke, 1976

FA: Walter Vogt, 1921

FA: Josef Döring, P. Herzog & K. Kopf, 1909

FA: Horst Heller & K. Brankoff, 1994

Vom „Daxkopf“ Überfall oder Sprung (2) und Kante zu Absatz. Wandstufen zG.

FA: Egon Liefer, 1962

Vom Daxkopf weiter Überfall zum Ende der Rissspur "Direkte Westwand". Diese zG.

FA: 26 Aug 2018

Wie „Regensicher“ zur Kammer. Rechts 5m in engen Kamin, diesen hoch und durch Loch zG.

FA: 4 Oct 2020

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