Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.


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Grade Route

Rechts in der Südwestwand Kamin und Wand zG.

FA: Otto Damaschke, 1936

2m rechts von "Alter Weg" Wand gerade zG.

Topo. Now with additional ring acceptable protection.

In der Mitte zwischen "Alter Weg" und "Südwestriss" Wand (R) gerade zG.

FA: Rolf Weigand & J. Weigand, 1982

5m links von "Alter Weg" Wand und Riss zG.

Ganz links in der Südwestwand Rinne und überhängenden Kamin zG.

Topo. Now with additional ring acceptable protection.

4m rechts der "Nordwand" Wand (2R) und Rissspur zu bewachsenem band. Riss und Wand (R) zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke, D. Heinicke & S. Irrgang, 1988

Rechts von „Neue Nordwand“ Wand (2Ö) auf bewachsenen Absatz. Riss (Ö) auf Pfeiler. Wand zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & Peter Zuppke, 19 Jul 2018

1,5m rechts vom "Talweg" Wand gerade zu bewachsenen Band. Links stumpfe Kante (R) zG.

Topo. Now with 3 additional rings acceptable protection.

1,5 m rechts der "Talverschneidung" Wand leicht rechtshalten zu R. Stumpfe Kante (R) zu Band. Rechts feine linksgeneigte Verschneidung (R) bis Ende. Wand und Überhang bei Risseinschnitt zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke & D. Heinicke, 1979

Topo. Now with 3 additional rings acceptable protection.

3m links vom Einstiegsblock vom "Talweg" Wand leicht linkshaltend (R) zum 2.R "Stumpfe Kante".

"Weg am Rande" 4m hoch, dann linke Kante (R) zum Riss.

Von der Aussicht "Johanniswacht" in Nordwestrichtung absteigen zu Hochscharte (Block). Südostwand zG.

Von "Rechter Weg" absteigen, rechts queren unter Klemmblock hindurch und auf diesen (Hochscharte).

Ganz rechts in der Südwestwand rechts queren und Kamin rechts der Südkante zG.

3m links von "Rechter Weg" Wand und Riss zG.

3m rechts von "Alter Weg" Wand gerade zG.

Von Nordosten Wand auf südwestlich vorgelagerte Säule ("Priebstspitze, Nachholering). Sprung auf Absatz. Wand zG.

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