A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Marcel DDjensl Thorsten Koch Tom Victor Stefan B. vilda_hkvdf Campbell Gome Elmo Jan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Johannismauer 39 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Johannismauer 39 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.840748, 14.040112
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Kletterführer | ||||||||
2 |
★ Alter Weg
Rechts in der Südwestwand Kamin und Wand zG. FA: Otto Damaschke, 1936 | I | 10m | |||||
3 |
Alter Weg Erwähnung
2m rechts von "Alter Weg" Wand gerade zG. | III | ||||||
4 |
★ Gerader Weg
In der Mitte zwischen "Alter Weg" und "Südwestriss" Wand (PnR) gerade zG. Topo. Now with additional ring acceptable protection. FA: Rolf Weigand & J. Weigand, 1982 | V | 1 | |||||
5 |
★★ Südwestriss
5m links von "Alter Weg" Wand und Riss zG. | III | ||||||
6 | ★★ Leichte Stiege | II | ||||||
7 | ★★ Leichte Stiege Tunnelvariante | I | ||||||
8 | ★ Pfeilerweg | III | ||||||
9 | Pfeilerweg Variante | V | ||||||
10 |
Anjas Weg
3m links vom "Pfeilerweg" Kante (R) zG. FA: Ulrich Schmidt, Anja Welsh, Elen Schmidt & Thomas Kubisch, 3 Jul 2022 | V | 12m, 1 | |||||
11 | Feierabendstiege | IV | ||||||
12 | Abendweg | V | ||||||
13 |
★ Johannes' Rinne
Ganz links in der Südwestwand Rinne und überhängenden Kamin zG. | IV | ||||||
14 | Frühlingszauber | VI | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | Westweg | V | ||||||
16 |
Sisyphusarbeit
AF VIIc. Rechts vom "Nordwestkamin" Wand an Überhang vorbei (3R) und Kante (Links R vom "Nordwestkamin direkt") zG. FA: Falk Stephan, 3 Jun 2022 | VIIIa | 4 | |||||
17 | Nordwestkamin | III | ||||||
18 | Nordwestkamin direkt | VIIa | 1 | |||||
19 |
Sandalenriss
AF VIIa. 5m links vom "Nordwestkamin" Riss zu R. Wand zu Absatz. Wand (R) zu Grat. "Nordwestkamin direkt" zu Band. Wand leicht linkshaltend (R) zG. FA: Falk Stephan, Bert Sedlenk & Heiko Lehnert, 19 May 2022 | VIIb | 3 | |||||
20 |
Bienchen summ herum
Links vom "Sandalenriss" Wand (Ö) und Riss auf Rampe. Rissspur (Ö) auf Grat. Diesen nach links auf Pfeiler der "Normösen". FA: Falk Stephan & Bert Sedlenk, 19 May 2022 | VIIb | 2 | |||||
21 |
Berts neuer Ausstieg
"Neue Nordwand" zu Band. Riss rechts der "Neuen Nordwand" zG. FA: Falk Stephan & Bert Sellak, 21 Jul 2021 | VIIc | 1 | |||||
22 |
Neue Nordwand
Topo. Now with additional ring acceptable protection. 4m rechts der "Nordwand" Wand (2R) und Rissspur zu bewachsenem band. Riss und Wand (R) zG. FA: Falk Heinicke, D. Heinicke & S. Irrgang, 1988 | VIIc | 27m, 3 | |||||
23 |
Normösen
Rechts von „Neue Nordwand“ Wand (2Ö) auf bewachsenen Absatz. Riss (Ö) auf Pfeiler. Wand zG. FA: Falk Stephan & Peter Zuppke, 19 Jul 2018 | VIIIa | 3 | |||||
24 |
★ Nordwand
1,5m rechts vom "Talweg" Wand gerade zu bewachsenen Band. Links stumpfe Kante (R) zG. | VIIa | 1 | |||||
25 | Nordwand Variante | V | ||||||
26 | ★★ Talweg | IV | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★★ Stumpfe Kante
1,5 m rechts der "Talverschneidung" Wand leicht rechtshalten zu PnR. Stumpfe Kante (PnR) zu Band. Feine linksgeneigte Verschneidung (PnR) bis Ende. Wand und Überhang bei Risseinschnitt zG. Topo. Now with 3 additional rings acceptable protection. FA: Falk Heinicke & D. Heinicke, 1979 | VI | 25m, 3 | |||||
28 |
★ Stumpfe Kante Rechter Einstieg
3m links vom Einstiegsblock vom "Talweg" Wand leicht linkshaltend (R) zum 2.R "Stumpfe Kante". Topo. Now with 3 additional rings acceptable protection. FA: Falk Heinicke & und Gefährten, 1987 | VIIa | 30m, 3 | |||||
29 | ★ Talverschneidung | V | 15m | |||||
30 | ★ Weg am Rande | VIIa | 1 | |||||
31 |
Ostkante
"Weg am Rande" 4m hoch, dann linke Kante (R) zum Riss. | VIIa | 2 | |||||
32 | Weg am Rande Zapfenvariante | VIIb | 1 | |||||
33 | Freie Sicht | III | ||||||
34 |
Aussichtsweg
Von der Aussicht "Johanniswacht" in Nordwestrichtung absteigen zu Hochscharte (Block). Südostwand zG. | II | 7m | |||||
35 |
Aussichtsweg Erwähnung
Von "Rechter Weg" absteigen, rechts queren unter Klemmblock hindurch und auf diesen (Hochscharte). | II | ||||||
36 | Familiensprung | III 2 | ||||||
37 |
Rechter Weg
Ganz rechts in der Südwestwand rechts queren und Kamin rechts der Südkante zG. | II | ||||||
38 |
★★ Südweg
3m links von "Rechter Weg" Wand und Riss zG. | I | 10m | |||||
39 |
★ Schnelle Wand
3m rechts von "Alter Weg" Wand gerade zG. | IV | 10m | |||||
40 |
Johannissprung
Von Nordosten Wand auf südwestlich vorgelagerte Säule ("Priebstspitze, Nachholering). Sprung auf Absatz. Wand zG. | IV 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
I | ★ | Alter Weg | 10m | ||
★★ | Leichte Stiege Tunnelvariante | ||||
★★ | Südweg | 10m | |||
II | Aussichtsweg | 7m | |||
Aussichtsweg Erwähnung | |||||
★★ | Leichte Stiege | ||||
Rechter Weg | |||||
III | Alter Weg Erwähnung | ||||
Freie Sicht | |||||
Nordwestkamin | |||||
★ | Pfeilerweg | ||||
★★ | Südwestriss | ||||
III/2 | Familiensprung | ||||
IV | Feierabendstiege | ||||
★ | Johannes' Rinne | ||||
★ | Schnelle Wand | 10m | |||
★★ | Talweg | 20m | |||
IV/4 | Johannissprung | ||||
V | Abendweg | ||||
Anjas Weg | 12m, 1 | ||||
★ | Gerader Weg | 1 | |||
Nordwand Variante | |||||
Pfeilerweg Variante | |||||
★ | Talverschneidung | 15m | |||
Westweg | |||||
VI | Frühlingszauber | ||||
★★ | Stumpfe Kante | 25m, 3 | |||
VIIa | ★ | Nordwand | 1 | ||
Nordwestkamin direkt | 1 | ||||
Ostkante | 2 | ||||
★ | Stumpfe Kante Rechter Einstieg | 30m, 3 | |||
★ | Weg am Rande | 1 | |||
VIIb | Bienchen summ herum | 2 | |||
Sandalenriss | 3 | ||||
Weg am Rande Zapfenvariante | 1 | ||||
VIIc | Berts neuer Ausstieg | 1 | |||
Neue Nordwand | 27m, 3 | ||||
VIIIa | Normösen | 3 | |||
Sisyphusarbeit | 4 |