Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Heinz Titel, 1960

Wand gerade zum Kamin.

FA: J. Kulicke & H. Krowiorz, 1988

Vom Ende der Rinne Wand gerade zG

FA: Jörg Hutloff, 1980

FA: Michael Meyer, 1977

Links der "Südostkante" Wand über 2 R zu Absatz. Links der "Südostkante" zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich & Joachim Friedrich, 10 Mar 2018

FA: Falk Stephan, 29 Aug 2012

FA: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 1990

FA: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 1990

FA: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 1991

FA: Falk Stephan, 2004

FA: Joachim Friedrich, T. Kubisch & U. Schmidt, 1991

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1976

FA: Gottfried Kern, Petra Aegerter & A. Werner, 1988

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1976

2 m links der "Nordwand" Wand (R) zG.

FA: Ute Friedrich & Joachim Friedrich, 22 Apr 2018

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1976

FA: Jörg Tittel & H. Tittel, 1961

Wand links vom "Ostriss", oben über Überhang zG

Warning Flora and Fauna: 8.6.2021 Vogelnest mit 5 jungen Amseln in 2/3 Höhe

FA: 1976


First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


Check out what is happening in Mandarin.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文