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Schaftwaldturm

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 1

Access: Komplettes Waldbetretungsverbot bis auf Weiteres

Das Betreten aller Wälder des Landkreises SOE ist bis auf Weiteres 24/7 untersagt. Grund ist nach den vorangegangenen Teilbeschränkungen die weiter bestehenden Waldbrände und Waldbrandgefahr.

https://www.landratsamt-pirna.de/bekanntmachungen.html

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Created 12 days ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

In der Schartenwand zG.

Vom Massiv Kamin 5m absteigen und links queren zu schmalem Band. Sprung zum Absatz in der Schartenwand.

Einstieg von rechts oder links Überhängende Nordkante (2R) zG.

In der Nordostseite überhängenden Riss bis Ende. Rechts (R) der Rissspur. Nach links und Ostkante über Überhang zum ansteigendem Band. In Mitte Nordostwand zG.

Rechts vom überhängenden Riss abzweigende Rissspur (R) zum Ende des ansteigenden Bandes.

Links in der Südkante Wand zG.

Links in der Südwestseite Wand und überhängenden Riss zG.

Vom Massiv 3m absteigen zu Absatz. Sprung zu überdachtem Absatz an der Südkante. Rechts der Kante Wand zG.

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