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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Descent notes

Abseilöse "Feuchter Weg"

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Max Kmetzsch & C. Pelletier, 1906

Riss links vom Kamin "Alter Weg" zG.

AF VIIIa

AF VIIc

with support VIIb

with support VIIc

"Südriss" 4m hoch und rechts queren zur Südkante. Diese (R) zu Band. In Wandmitte über Überhang Südkante auf Pfeiler und zG. - Die Erstbegeher stiegen vom "Südriss"-Einstieg rechtsansteigend zur Südkante (VIIb).

FA: Helmut Oehme & W. Sieber, 1968

FA: Joachim Friedrich, D. Gürtler, I. Gürtler, U. Friedrich, F. Richter & U. Schmidt, 1984

5m links der Südkante in flachem Winkel Rissfolge zG.

FA: Lutz Tittel & H. Tittel, 1959

AF VIIIb

AF VIIc. Vom R "Neuer Talweg" Wand (2R) gerade, oben links (3R) dicht neben "Pfeilerweg" zG.

FA: 2004

8m links vom "Pfeilerweg" Wandstufe zu Überhang. Diesen von rechts her überwindend (R) und Riss, zuletzt wie "Talweg" zG.

FA: Horst Umlauft, H. Schwarz & H. Meier, 1965

Wie "Unterbrochener Riss" einsteigend, dann links Wand gerade (2R) zu Absatz. Rechts zu Kante (3.R) und Wand gerade zu Band (Sanuhr). Gerade zu Rissüberhang (4.R) und Wand zG.

FA: 12 Sep 2018

Vom Absatz rechtshaltend Wand (R "von Exe um Exe" und Sanduhr) zu Band. Von links her Kante (R) zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel & G. Hühnchen, 1983

Links der "Chinesenschlucht" Wand und Rissspur (R), später links an der Kante zu Band (R). Rechts über Überhang in Wandmitte zG.

FA: Horst Umlauft, T. Braun & H. Schwarz, 1966

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