• Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 4



Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.


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Grade Route

Links der Westkante zu Band und Kamin zG.

Zwischen "Alter Weg" und "Blockweg" Wand zG.

FA: 1994

Links von "Alter Weg" Wand zu Band und blockgefüllten Riss zG.

Rechts vom "Nordwestkamin" Wand, Überhang und Riss zG.

FA: 1994

"Nordwestkamin" zu 1. Band. 3m links queren und Wand über 2. Überhang zG.

FA: 1994

Rechts der stumpfen Nordkante gebrochenen Riss an 2. Überhängen vorbei zG.

FA: 1962

3m links vom "Emporenweg" stumpfe überhängende Kante zu Absatz. Überhängenden Riss gerade zG.

FA: 1996

2m links vom Einstieg „Schräger Weg“ bei Riss Νordwand gerade űber mehrere Absätze und 2 Überhänge zG.

FA: 30 May 2020

Links der stupfen Nordkante Bänder linksansteigend, "Talweg" kreuzend, und rechts in der Südostseite zG.

Östliche Talkante an Absatz vorbei zG.

5m rechts vom "Talweg" Riss zum Absatz.

AF VIIIa. Rechts in der Südostseite Wand und linksgeneigten Riss über Dach (R) zG.

FA: 1993

4m links vom "Kruzifix" Wand, Dach (2R) und gerade bewachsene Wand an Absatz vorbei zG.

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2007

2,5 m rechts vom "Südostkamin" an Dachkante rechts hangelnd zu kurzem Riss und bewachsene Wandstufen zG

FA: 2007

4m links der Südkante Wand und kurze Verschneidung zu Band. Links überhängende Rinne zG.

FA: 1980

2m links von "Kleine Predigt" Wand über Überhang (R) gerade zu Band. "Kleine Predigt" zG.

FA: 1998

Westkante, Überhang kurz rechts umgehend, gerade zG.


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