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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Von Osten zu 3/4 auf das nördlich vorgelagerte Massiv. Links querem zu westlichem Vorbau. Übertritt und rechte Kante (Abseilöse) zG.

FA: Heinz Tittel, 1960

Vom Übertritt links queren und überh. Riss in der N-Seite zG.

FA: Heinz Mättig, F. Bjarsch & C. Berger, 1970

Vom Einstieg des „AW“ hoch auf das nördlich vorgelagerte M. Sprung zum westlich vorge- lagerten M. In SO-Richtung etwa 2,5 m absteigen und Sprung zu Absatz. Wie „AW“ zG.

FA: Peter Zuppke, 19 Oct 2015

Rechts in der N-Scharte in Felswinkel Kamin zu Absatz und stumpfe Kante zG.

FA: Mario Jilge, B. Jilge, P. Jäger, D. Martin & D. Awe, 4 Oct 2015

Rechts in der N-Scharte Wand an 2 R vorbei zu Plateau. Riss der „Pfingstvariante“ zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & S. Gilbert, 31 Jul 2016

Links in der Nordscharte Riss zu Block. Kante zu Plateau. Nach rechts und Riss von „Alter Weg Pfingstvariante“ zG.

FA: Rolf Hofmann & G. Schmidt, 1970

Rechts vom „Südostweg“ Wand an zwei Absätzen vorbei zu R. Über Überhang (Sanduhr) zu Plateau. Wie „Talweg“ zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & H.-J. Kienast, 13 Nov 2015

Von SO Riss zu Plateau. Nach links und Kante des „AW“ zG.

FA: Adolf Buchholz, 1960

Links vom „SO-Weg“ Kante und über Überhang (R) zu Plateau. Wie „Talweg“ zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, H.-J. Kienast & G. Stephan, 16 Jul 2016

In der S-Wand etwa 4 m rechts der „Schrecksekunde“ über Bauch (nR) zu Loch (2. nR). Überh. an gr. Zacke vorbei zu Plateau. Wie „Talweg“ zG.

FA: Ronald Queck, M. Fischer & R. Queck, 1 Oct 2015

3 m rechts vom „Talweg“ Wand zu Riss (nR). Diesen zu 2. nR und Wand zu Plateau. Wie „Talweg“ zG.

FA: Ronald Queck, Martin Fischer & R. Queck, 1 Oct 2015

Links in der SW-Seite Wandstufe und Rissfolge in Verschneidung zu Plateau. Rechts überh. in Wandmitte zG.

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1961

Links vom „Talweg“ schmale Wand über zwei Überhänge an 2 nÖsen vorbei direkt auf Absatz. Wie „AW“ zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 1 Nov 2018

Links in der SW-Seite Kamin zwi- schen Turm und M zu Absatz am „AW“. Wie dieser zG.

FA: Werner Helle, G. Lischne, S. Henzel, R. Borg- mann & R. Borgmann, 1970

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