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Liebesknochen

  • Grade context: SX
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 1

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Aus der Scharte rechts über Blöcke und Spalt über Band zu Absatz in der Südseite (Nachholöse). Rechte Kante am Gipfelkopf zG.

FA: Erich Fröde & H. Walther, 1957

Warning Fixed Gear: bolt illegally removed?

Aus der Scharte über Platte zu Band. Rechte Schartenkante zu Band und weiter (Ö) zG.

FA: unbekannt

Warning Fixed Gear: bolt illegally removed?

„Alter Weg“ zu Band und Querung nach links zur Kante (Ö).

„Alter Weg“ zu Absatz (Nachholöse). Rechts queren in die Talseite und Wand zG.

FA: Wolfgang Putzbach, 1973

AF VIIa. Aus der Scharte über Platte zu Absatz. Kurzen Riss (R) zu Absatz und Wand bei linker Kante des Gipfelkopfes (2.R) zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke & K. Kühnel, 1 Oct 2015

Warning Fixed Gear: "Eclaire" bolt illegally removed?

AF VI. Rechts der Nordkante Verschneidung (R) zu Absatz. Über Überhang zu Band. „Eclaire“ zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke & K. Kühnel, 6 Oct 2015

AF VIIIb. Rechts in der Nordostwand Wabenwand und Kante (3R) zu Absatz. „Liebeskummer“ zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke & K. Kühnel, 1 Oct 2015

AF VIIIb. In Mitte Nordostwand teils überhängende Wand (3R) zu Absatz. „Nordostwand“ zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & S. Hensel, 28 Aug 2016

Rechte Talkante (3R) zu Absatz. „Nordostwand“ zG.

FA: Peter Zuppke & Falk Stephan, 29 May 2017

AF VIIIc. Rechts vom „Talweg“ überhängende Wand (4R) zu Absatz. "Nordostwand" zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 15 Sep 2016

In Mitte Talseite Riss zum Absatz vom „Alten Weg“ (Nachholöse). Diesen zG.

FA: Frank Görner, Steffen Büttner, H. Thomas & H. Klatte, 1974

Links vom „Talweg“ teils überhängende Wand (2R) auf Absatz (Nachholöse). "Alter Weg" zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & P. Zuppke, 29 May 2017

An der linken Talkante (3R) zu Absatz (Nachholöse). "Alter Weg“ zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke & K. Kühnel, 9 Jun 2018

Warning Fixed Gear: bolts illegally removed?

Südwestkante (2 Absätze, 2R) zum Absatz vom "Alten Weg" (Nachholöse). Diesen zG.

FA: Falk Stephan & H. Schmidt, 15 Sep 2016

Links vom "Liebhaberstück" in Höhlung hinein. Kamin und Durchschlupf zum 2. Absatz.

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