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Access issues inherited from Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet
Das Bouldern im Gebiet bewegt sich in einer "Grauzone". Der Einsatz von Magnesia und auch das Bouldern selbst, ist im LSG Sächsische Schweiz, laut der "Bergsportkonzeption LSG Sächsische Schweiz" verboten. Auch der Waldbesitzer im Bereich Gendarm bis Bahratalwand hat Betretungsverbote der Waldflächen ausgesprochen. Deshalb ist Rücksichtsvolles Verhalten (eigentlich eine Selbstverständlichkeit) dringend geboten.
Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
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Author(s): B. Arnold
Date: 2017
Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.
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Fri 8 Sep
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