Access: Semilegal status bouldering and chalk prohibition

The sectors east of the Gottleuba river (all sectors except Kleine Bastein, Gulag and Wasserfall) belong to the nature reserve 'Landschaftsschutzgebiet Sächsische Schweiz' where climbing is only allowed on the official traditional climbing summits. The use of chalk is explicitly banned. 2015 and before rangers were controlling this and sentenced boulderers with fines (Ordungswidrigkeit). Just because this seems not to happen anymore doesn't mean that bouldering and use of chalk is legal. Be aware of that and take your own choice.

The sectors west of the Gottleuba river (sectors Kleine Bastein, Gulag and Wasserfall) belong to the nature reserve 'Landschaftsschutzgebiet Unteres Osterzgebirge' where climbing also is only allowed on official climbing spots, if you do otherwise you also commit a 'Ordnungswidrigkeit'. But the use of chalk is not explicitly forbidden.

Most of the land is privately owned. The owner doesn't want people bouldering on his land, in 2018 there were signs at the main parking lot that acces to the land and bouldering is forbidden.

Contrary to this the german alpine club DAV argues that access and climbing outside of protection areas like national parks is legal due to the common right to enter landscape and woods.

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Created 7 months ago



Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.



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Grade Route

Rechts in der Südseite 3,5m hoch, links queren, Rippe und Riss bis zum Ende. Wand oder rechts queren und kante zum Gipfel.

Stumpfe Südwestkante zum Absatz, Mittelweg kreuzend, überhängende kante, Ring, zum Gipfel.

2,5m links von "Alter Weg" bei feiner Rippe direkt zum Ende des Querganges von "Alter Weg". Diesen zG.

FA: Uwe Niebelt, Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2003

Links vom Mittelweg Rissrinne, Überhang, Ring, und Wand rechtshaltend zum Gipfel.

Rechts in der Westseite linksgeneigte Rippe bis unter Überhang. Rechts queren, Südwand kreuzend, zum Riss "Alter Weg". Links im Winkel gerade zG.

Wie AW einsteigen und Wand linkshaltend auf kleine Kanzel. Unterstützend, rechtshaltend über Überhang und Wand gerade zum Gipfel.

Vom Block aus Ostkante zum Gipfel.

In Mitte Schartenseite zum Hangelband. Nach links, Ring, zum Absatz, Wand rechtshaltend zum Gipfel.

with support VIIa. Links in der Südseite (unterstützt) Wand (Band, R) zG.

Vom Hangelband Wand gerade (R) zG.

Rechts in der Schartenseite Wand zum Absatz, unterstützend, Wand, Ring, zum Gipfel.

Links in der Schartenseite feine Rippe und Wand gerade zum R.

Rechts unterhalb vom Einstieg der Ostkante Wand rechtshaltend zu kleinem Absatz. Linke Kante zum Gipfel.

4m rechts vom Einstieg des AW Wand auf den Block.

Vom Massiv kurz absteigen und Sprung zu kleinem Absatz an der Ostkante (Birke). Diesen zum Gifpel.

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