Prominent summit at southwestern corner of the Pfaffenstein next to the pinnacle of Barbarine (climbing forbidden).

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.



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Grade Route

FA: Kurt Nitzschmann & E. Strobel, 1915

Vom Einstieg der "Nordostwand" Rissspur direkt zum Riss.


with support VIIa

FA: Joachim Friedrich & R. Nestler, 1985

with support IV

Vom Doppelring Kamin zu "Alter Weg".

Vom Ring rechtsansteigend Wand und Mulde zum Vorgipfel.

FA: Bernd Arnold, 12 Nov 2013

Vom Einstieg "Südverschneidung Einstiegsvariante" linkshaltend Wand zu R. Wand gerade (2.R) auf Absatz. "Μit gutem Gefühl" zG.

FA: Tino Tanneberger, 1 Jul 2021

"Südriss" zu großem Dach. Kante (2 R) zG.

FA: Michael Techel, 1 Jan 2016

with support VIIIa

AF IXc. Topo. Links vom "Eckpfeiler" Schmalseite (4 R) zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich, J. Friedrich & F. Friedrich, 28 Mar 2017

Links in der Südwestseite linksgeneigten Riss, oben Kamin mit Klemmblöcken zu Vorgipfel (Nacholering). Übergang zG.

Wie "Nordwestweg" hoch und weiter auf Klemmblock. Rechts Verschnedung/Riss zu Vorgipfel (Nachholring). Absteigen und Übertritt zum Gipfel.

FA: Steffi Kürbiß & G. Kürbiß, 1983


with support VIIb


with support VI

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1993

with support VI

FA: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2006


AF IXb. Rechts vom "Winkelriss" Wand (3R) zG.

FA: Janek Liebiger & Falk Stephan, 1 Sep 2018


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