Help

Papst

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Gipfelbuch: Am "Kluftweg" -Ausstieg / register: exit of "Kluftweg"

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Descent notes

Abseilöse am Ausstieg vom "Gartenblick" / Lower off at exit of "Gartenblick"

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Abstieg um Abseilen zu sparen

FA:

2m links vom "Nordkamin" einsteigen.

A.F.: VIIb

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIb

A.F.: VIIIa

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIb

FA: Hasso Gantze, M. Kühn & P. Jacob, 1982

A.F.: VIIc

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

Vom 3.R Wand leicht rechtshaltend zG.

AF VIIa. "Südweg" bis zum links einsetzenden Riss diesen und Wand (R) zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, 25 Feb 2021

A.F.: VIIa

Wand direkt zum Riss

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

A.F.: VIIIa

AF VIIIa

FA: Falk Heinicke, Joachim Friedrich, F. Donath, D. Heinicke & S. Richter, 1990

A.F.: VIIIa

A.F.: VIIc

AF VIIc

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

with support VIIa. Rechts vom Einstieg "Weg der Kardinäle" überhängende Wand zum Band und R.

Picture. "Weg der Kardinäle" einsteigen und über Überhang (R) zG.

Identisch mit "Ratzinger"?

FA: M. Richter, 2011

AF VIIIa. "Weg der Kardinäle" bis zu Band. Überhang (Sanduhr, R) gerade und Reibung auf großen Vorbau.

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2005

AF VIIb

FA: Thomas Willenberg, G. Willenberg, H. Venus & M. Venus, 1988

AF VIIa

A.F.: VIIa

AF VIIc. "Abendmahl" einsteigen, Dach (R) und "Abendmahl" zG.

FA: M. Urban, 2011

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VI

Links vom "Kirchgang" über Überhang zur Kante.

Hinterm Klufteingang rechts Riss.

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Share this

Activity

Check out what is happening in Papst.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文