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Drei Bären

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 30

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: A. Heinrich, K. Hübel & A. Hübel, 1922

FA: K. Böttger & R. Minnick, 1967

FA: D. Ulbrich & K. Aehlig, 1988

FA: D. Ulbrich & M. Döring, 1980

FA: H. Gantze, H. John, A. Höfer & W. Schlenkrich, 1978

FA: T. Nawrath, R. Schuhmann & H. J. Schurz, 1988

FA: H. Gantze, R. Schuhmann & H. John, 1981

FA: J. Knepper, 1982

FA: R. Döring & W. Krug, 1972

FA: H. Gantze, 1975

FA: H. Walther, 1961

FA: H. Schmuck, D. Heincke, H. Jackl, H.-J. Müller, B. Freitag, E. Berger & W. Hentschel, 1966

FA: T. Nawrath, R. Schuhmann & H. J. Schurz, 1987

FA: Gunter Hommel & J. Friedrich, 2005

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Fl. Friedrich, 2005

FA: 1964

AF VIIa

FA: M. Jilge, B. Jilge & K. Jilge, 2008

FA: W. Poock, 1962

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1992

FA: E. Ullmann & G. Nitsche, 1989

FA: W. Poock & R. Reppe, 1962

FA: G. Ludewig & H. J. Höhne, 1976

AF IXa

FA: R. Hohlfeld & B. Hohlfeld, 2006

FA: S. Scholz, H.-J. Scholz, A. Manka & J. Manka, 1990

FA: A. Manka & J. Manka, 1991

FA: D. Ulbrich & D. Scheibe, 1980

FA: C.-J. Stiller & R. Hohlfeld, 2008

FA: H. Gantze, W. Schlenkrich & B. Müller, 1987

FA: J. Böhmer & D. Ulbrich, 1988

A.F. VIIc

FA: D. Ulbrich & H. Räuchle, 1980

FA: S. Scholz, R. Hübner & H.-J. Scholz, 1991

FA: S. Scholz & H.-J. Scholz, 1991

FA: G. Ludewig & H. J. Höhne, 1976

FA: P. Sacha, H. Gommlich, W. Funke, R. Thomas & D. Schumann, 1966

FA: W. Poock & R. Reppe, 1962

FA: G. Ludewig & H. J. Höne, 1976

FA: G. Ludewig & H. J. Höne, 1976

FA: G. Ludewig & D. Heinicke, 1976

AF VIIIb

FA: Joachim Friedrich, Florian Friedrich & Jens Tümmler, 2005

Vom 3.R gebogene Hangelkante linkshaltend auf den Vorbau.

FA: M. Gäbler & R. Schuhmann, 1985

AF VIIc

FA: D. Ulbrich & K. Aehlig, 1988

AF VIIc

FA: T. Kubisch & L. Schindler, 2004

FA: R. Reppe & W. Poock, 1962

FA: G. Ludewig & D. Heinicke, 1976

FA: K. Aehlig, J. Elsner & T. Migge, 1992

AF IXc

FA: S. Scholz, H.-J. Scholz & M. Scholz, 1991

FA: T. Willenberg, 2011

FA: H.-J. Zülicke, 1970

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Bizarre Felstürme, romantische Schluchten, endlose Wälder Eine über 150-jährige Klettertradition hat hier ein recht strenges Regelwerk bewahrt. Der Führer stellt eine Auswahl von über 300 der lohnendsten Sandsteinrouten, vorwiegend in den Schwierigkeitsgraden I bis VII vor. Gebietsfremden oder Anfängern soll der Einstieg ins Elbsandsteinklettern so erleichtert werden.

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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