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Description

Special thanks for the topo to Frank Rainer Richter, Königstein

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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FFA: Heinz Seidel & H. Kuntzsch, 1969

FFA: Gerald Männel, 1970

FFA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1970

Links vom „SW-Weg“ Reibung leicht linkshaltend zu R. Links Wand (SU) dann gerade zum Absatz des „AW“. Wie dieser zG.

FA: 2015

FFA: Wieland Mohaupt, 1970

FFA: Gottfried Geyer & Wieland Mohaupt, 1970

Mitte N-Seite auf Block Wand zu Band und zG

FA: 2015

FFA: Wieland Mohaupt & Gottfried Geyer, 1970

FFA: Reiner Dietel & H. Schramm, 1970

Ostkante auf Block. li Kante zG

FA: 2018

FFA: Hans-Jürgen Zülicke, 1970

FFA: 1970

FFA: Hans-Jürgen Zülicke, 1970

FFA: Heinz Seidel & H. Kuntzsch, 1969

Rechts der S-Kante des VG Kamin, Wand über Bäuche (nR), oben rechtshaltend (R) auf VG. Übergang zG.

FA: 2019

Südkante des VG direkt an R vorbei zG. Erwähnung: auch Kamin rechts davon kurz hoch und linksansteigend zur Kante ("Gesunder Einstieg"(V)).

FA: Andreas E & J.Wagner, 29 Mar 2015

Links von "Klondike" Spreize und Wand (R, nR) zG.

FA: J.Wagner, 19 Apr 2015

Rechts von "Lonesome George" Wand 2R auf VG. Wie Schartenweg zG.

FA: Andreas E, 19 Apr 2015

Rechts vom AW stumpfe Kante (nR) auf VG. Schartenweg zG.

FA: J. Wagner, 29 Mar 2015

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