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Pfaffenhütchen

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 12
  • Aka: Kirschkern

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Rechts in der NW-Seite bei Rissspur zu Band. Geneigte Wand zG.

FA: 1980

Links vom „AW“ stumpfe NW-Kante an Band vorbei zG.

FA: Heiko Züllchner & Udo henke, 1993

Wie „Alter Weg“ zu Band. Auf diesem links queren zur Kante.

FA: unbekannt

3 m links der NW-Kante Wand gerade hoch zu Loch. Linksansteigend (2 R) zum 3. R der „Lustkante“. Wie diese zG.

FA: André Gäbel & Gunter Gäbel, 2002

Rechts der NO-Kante Wand und Löcherfolge linksansteigend zu R. Links Reibungskante an 2 R vorbei zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel, G. Hühnchen, S. Vogel & R. Sütterlin, 1990

Vom 1. R der „Lustkante“ links um die Kante und Reibung links der „Lustkante“ zu 2. R. Etwas links Reibung weiter zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel, G. Hühnchen, S. Vogel, R. Sütterlin, Christiane Vogel, Steffi Sütterlin & R. Reichstein, 1990

In der Talseite (unterhalb von kl. Winkel) über Dach und leicht rechts zu R. Reibung leicht rechts an 2. R vorbei zum 2. R der „Katzenreibung“. Wie diese zG.

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 11 Sep 2016

An der linken Ecke der Talseite (unterst.) und sogleich (oberhalb der Dachkante) Hangel- bänder rechtsansteigend um die fl ache Kante und hoch zu R. Reibung an 2. R vorbei zG.

FA: Johannes Munde, R. Reichstein, H.-P. Madei, G. Hühnchen, S. Vogel, R. Sütterlin, M. Vogel, Steffi Sütterlin & Christiane Vogel, 1990

Wie „Topreibung“ einsteigen und Wand leicht rechts zu R. Reibung ...

Rechts in der S-Wand an 2 R vorbei zG.

FA: Thomas Knoof & H. Moser, 1995

Wie „AW“ kurz hoch, dann rechtsansteigend über der Dachkante queren zu R. Kante zG.

FA: Joachim Friedrich, 18 Dec 2019

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