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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

SÜDSCHLUCHT außen hochspreizen(2R). Übertritt, Riss und Wand über 2R zu Abs. Rechts Pfeilerkante über 5.R zu gr.Abs. Links in SO-Wand über 6.R zA.

FA: Michael Urban, G. Blaschek & M. Urban, 29 Jun 2012

4m rechts der SÜDKANTE stumpfe Kante über 3R zum nR der SÜDKANTE. Diese zA

Dicht links der Südkante Rippe zum Ende(Schl.). Rechts queren und Verschn. zum gr.Band der KNEIFERVAR. Rechts Kante über nR und Üh. zA

FA: 1987

Rechts der Südkante Verschn. direkt zur Verschn.

FA: 1990

Im rechten Teil der Südwestwand Wandstufe zu Band. Kurze Rippe an nR vorbei und Wand zu großer geneigter Rippe. Diese, oben nach links zu 2. Ring. Handriss zum großen Band der "Kneifervariante"(2.AÖ). Diese oder wie "Südkante" zur Aussicht.

FA: Dietrich Hasse & Bernd Arnold, 1985

FA: Göran Vogler & Sven Zimmermann, 1993

Heute meist nur bis zum großen Band der Kneifervariante begangen

4m links der SÜDHANGEL linksanst. zu Band und weit links queren über Nische bis kurz vor die NW-Kante(1.R). Linksanst. und Kante über 2.R zu gr.Abs.(3.R,WB). Schräge Wand und linksgen.Rissfolge über 4.R zA.

FA: Dieter Rauchmaul, F.Flötgen & R.Mann, 1960

Vom 3.R auf gr.Band rechtsanst. queren (nR,WB) zu Verschn. Diese und Doppelriss(1.AÖ) zA.

FA: 1970

FA: Ulrich Schmidt & Joachim Friedrich, 1989

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Lamm, H. Kamutzki & G. Ludewig, 1986

Größenproblem

according to here somewhere between Infuenzakante and Weiße Lilie?

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