• Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 8
  • Aka: Struppengrundturm
  • Aka: Edelfalkenturm



Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.



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Grade Route

Etwas rechts der SW-Kante Wand gerade hoch,daraufhin der markanten Rissspur folgen auf den Absatz welcher nach einer lezten Wandkletterei zum Gipfel führt.

FA: Richard Kutsche & R.Pötzsch

An der Kante der SW-Seite zu Absatz und daraufolgendem Gipfel klettern.

FA: Helmut Oehme & R.Dreßler

Den Einstieg wie SW-Kante klettern,dann am Band nach links zur NW-Kante queren und Riss und Verschneidung zum Absatz klettern. Von dort aus die lezten Meter wie der Alte Weg klettern.

FA: Hans Heilmaier

NW-Kante bis zu Absatz von "Nordwestweg" klettern. Am Absatzes des AW an der Kante der NW Seite bis zum Gipfel bleiben.

FA: Ekkehard Ullmann & J. Schaffrath

FA: Martin Straube & R.Etzold

FA: Rudolf Kaden

FA: Rudi Etzold, E. Freier & A. Futschick

FA: Ekkehard Ullmann, G. Nitsche & S. Lange

FA: Günter Hentschke, S. Jäger & M. Eisold

FA: Rudi Etzold & W. Bollner

FA: Helmut Oehme & Richard Dreßler

FA: Richard Dreßler & Helmut Oehme

FA: Johannes Munde

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