• Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 13
  • Aka: Pilzwand

Access: Achtung!

Der Gipfel befindet sich auf einem Privatgrundstück. Jeglicher Lärm ist untersagt! Nach 19:00 Uhr ist das Klettern verboten. An Sonn- und Feiertagen sollte am Felsen nicht geklettert werden.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago



Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.


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Grade Route

In der Scharte von links einsteigend Riss zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme & H. Schierz, 1930

Südwestkante (R) zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme, E. Winter & K. Bartel, 1931

Wand auch rechts der Südwestkante zG.

FA: Mario Jilge & D. Awe, 2008

Links in der Westseite Riss zu Absatz. Rechts queren und Riss zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme & H. Schierz, 1930

"Westriss" zu Absatz. Links queren und Talseite zG.

FA: Heike, 6 Jun 2018

Nordwestkante (oder auch rechts der Kante bei Rissspur) zu Band. Kante (R) zG.

FA: Matthias Braun & S. Maune, 4 Aug 2016

Rechts in der Talseite überhängende Wand (R) zu Band. Wand (2.R) zG.

FA: Frank R. Richter & P. Klische, 29 Jul 2020

Mitte Talseite Rissfolge oben in Verschneidung zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme, E. Winter & K. Bartel, 1931

3m links vom „Talweg“ Wand zu Absatz. Wand zu R und weiter zu großem Band. Wand zG.

FA: Heiko Züllchner & H. Züllchner, 16 Jun 2016

Mitte Ostseite Wand zu Absatz. Linkshaltend zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme & H. Schierz, 1930

AF VI. Unten überhängende Südostkante (2R) zG.

FA: Falk Stephan, G. Stephan & H. J. Kienast, 7 Jul 2018

Rechts von “Alter Weg“ rechtshaltend Spreize zG.

FA: Manfred Kühn, D. Schumann & J. Sonntag, 2001

Vom Massiv rechts absteigen und Übertritt zG.

FA: Manfred Kühn, J. Sonntag & D. Schumann, 2002

Vom Massiv Sprung zG.

FA: Helmut Oehme, 1930

3,5m links vom „Sprung“ von sehr kleinen Absatz an Kante Sprung zG.

FA: Holger May & M. Kührt, 25 Jun 2017


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