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Stelzchenkegel

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 11
  • Aka: Helmut-Claus-Spitze

Seasonality

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Description

Special thanks for the topo to Frank Rainer Richter, Königstein

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Links in der Südseite Riss und Wand zu Loch und rechts um die Südkante zu großem Band in der Ostseite. Bei Rinne zG.

FA: unbekannt, 1960

"Alter Weg" zum Loch. Durch dieses zum Band in der Ostseite.

Vom Einstieg "Alter Weg" links zu Absatz und Kante zu 2. Absatz. Über Überhang zG.

FA: Günther Göttlich, 1960

Links der Südwestecke Verschneidung zum 1. Absatz.

FA: Manfred Bendel & M. Kühn, 1998

In Mitte Westscharte Spreize (R) zu Loch. Rechts Wand zG.

FA: Manfred Kühn & M. Bendel, 1998

Ganz links in der Westscharte anfangs spreizend zu Band und rechts der Nordwestkante zG.

FA: Manfred Bendel & M. Kühn, 1998

3m rechts vom „Lügenmärchen“ über Überhang und schmale Wand zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich & S. Isensee, 28 Mar 2015

Rechts in der Ostseite überhängenden Risskamin zu Absatz und „Alter Weg“ zG.

FA: Mario Jilge, 2011

3m links vom “Lügenmärchen“ über großen Überhang und „Alter Weg" zG.

FA: Andreas E, 26 Mar 2015

2m links vom “Crashpad“ über großen Überhang und „Alter Weg“ zG.

FA: Daniel Schrör & T. Leißner, 7 May 2016

Südkante zum Band von „Alter Weg". Diesen zG.

FA: Manfred Kühn & D. Häber, 1996

Zwischen „Alter Weg“ und „Südkante“ Wand zu Loch (Sanduhr) und geradewegs zG. (Abseilöse)

FA: Karsten Kügler, T. Kügler & J. Kügler, 30 Jun 2016

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