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Gratwand

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 5

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Albert Kunze, A. Hoyer & R. Kopprasch, 1924

AF IXc. Links von "Νordostweg" (R) zu Vorgipfel. Wandstufen zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich, 20 Feb 2021

FA: Joachim Friedrich & U. Schmidt, 2000

FA: Jörg Teichert, T. Musch & P. Fenzke, 1989

FA: Dietrich Hasse, 1952

FA: Wolfram Lorenz & Daniela Kobler, 4 May 2022

FA: Tino Zeuler, M. Metzger & A. Thurm, 1985

FA: Eberhard Roßberg, Monika Fahr & D. Fahr, 1981

Aufstieg vom Wandfuß

FA: Manfred Vogel, E. Roßberg & J. Stelzner, 2001

FA: Felix Friedrich, 16 May 2018

FA: Hasso Gantze, 1981

FA: Horst Heller, 1989

FA: Helmut Ebert, 1952

FA: Horst Heller, 1987

Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.

FA: Horst Heller, 1981

FA: Horst Heller, 1981

FA: Manfred Vogel, D. Fahr & E. Roßberg, 2011

FA: Horst Heller & F. Fahrmann, 1982

AF VIIIa

FA: Falk Heinicke & Anett Riemer, 2003

FA: Thomas Musch, J. Teichert, J. Böhm & P. Fenzke, 1991

FA: Uwe Gliniorz, G. Ludewig & J. Maschke, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 8 Sep
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