Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Descent notes

Abseile 23m

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Vom "Dom" über den "Kesselgrat" (Nachholering) zur Pfeife. Überfall zur "Esse". Rechts queren und Riss in Südwestwand zG.

FA: Albert Kunze, O. Perry-Smith & H. Simon, 1903

Wie "Nördlicher Pfeifenkamin" am "Dom" zur Einschartung. Nach links und Handriss (R), oben nach links und Nordkante zG.

FA: Arno Sieber & O. Bruchholz, 1916

Nach dem R oben rechtshaltend Rissspur zG.

AF VIIIb

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 1997

with support VIIIb, VIIIc

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1997

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 1997

AF IXc

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Müller & G. Lamm, 1983

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Fehrmann, 1905

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, 1906

Von der kleinen Platte linkshaltend und linksgeneigten Handriss zu Band.

AF VIIa

Von Band in Höhe der Untermauerung (SW) in kleiner Verschneidung zu Band. Weiter rechts queren zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG.

"Lammriss Variante" zu Band und nach links zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG.

with support VIIc. "Südkante Originaleinstieg" zu Band...

FA: Gerd Schuster, W. Schuster, S. Kliche, H. Mrosek & H. Müller, 1947

with support VIIc. "Lammriss Variante" zu Band und linksansteigend (1.R "Heizer") zum 1.R.

with support VIIc

with support VIIb

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lokomotive-Esse.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文