A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Schwarzes Horn
224 in Area
- 1.1. Schneeberger Spitze 23 in Cliff
- 1.2. Schneeberger Nadel 6 in Cliff
- 1.3. Hinterer Schneeberger Turm 7 in Cliff
- 1.4. Vorderer Schneeberger Turm 15 in Cliff
- 1.5. Kleiner Schartenkopf 7 in Cliff
- 1.6. Großer Schartenkopf 5 in Cliff
- 1.7. Frühlingsturm 12 in Cliff
- 1.8. Püschnerturm 26 in Cliff
- 1.9. Schwarzes Horn 57 in Cliff
- 1.10. Abendturm 6 in Cliff
- 1.11. Märchenturm 12 in Cliff
- 1.12. Heringsgrundhorn 14 in Cliff
- 1.13. Hirschquellenturm 9 in Cliff
- 1.14. Heringsgrundturm 16 in Cliff
- 1.15. Feldschmiede 9 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Schwarzes Horn 224 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.906524, 14.245488
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
1.1. Schneeberger Spitze 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.908257, 14.243937
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alberner Aufstieg | VIIb | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 3 | Talweg Ausstiegsvariante | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | Der Sommer ist für alle da | VIIIb | ||||
| 5 | Direkter Nordostweg | VIIb | ||||
| 6 | Direkter Talweg | VIIIc | ||||
| 7 | Etwas besonderes | VIIc | ||||
| 8 | Jammerkante | VIIc | ||||
| 9 | Jauchzerkante | VIIIb | ||||
| 10 | Nichts Besonderes | VIIb | ||||
| 11 | Nordostweg | VIIb | ||||
| 12 | Nordweg | VIIa | ||||
| 13 | Nordwestweg | IV | ||||
| 14 | ★ Rebus | VIIc | ||||
| 15 | Riesenhangel | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Riesenpfeiler | VIIc | ||||
| 17 | Stürmischer Tag | VIIIc | ||||
| 18 | Südostkamin | V | ||||
| 19 | Südostwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 20 | Südostweg | V | ||||
| 21 | Südostweg direkt | VIIa | ||||
| 22 | ★ Talweg | VIIa | ||||
| 23 | Zierpflanzengärtner | VIIc | ||||
1.2. Schneeberger Nadel 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.908213, 14.244222
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Alter Weg
with support V | VI | ||||
| 2 | Feine Nadel | VIIb | ||||
| 3 | Gänsehaut | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | Nordwestriss | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Nordwestweg | VIIa | ||||
| 6 | Südwestkante | VIIb | ||||
1.3. Hinterer Schneeberger Turm 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.908211, 14.244588
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | 2 | ||||
| 2 | Nordwestriss | V | ||||
| 3 | Rampe | V | ||||
| 4 | Schartenriss | VI/VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Schnee von gestern | Xa | ||||
| 6 | Südostkamin | II | ||||
| 7 | Westkante | VIIb | ||||
1.4. Vorderer Schneeberger Turm 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.908143, 14.244369
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg direkt | II - IV | ||||
| 3 | Eisenformation | VIIIb | ||||
| 4 | Eisenformation Variante | VIIa | ||||
| 5 | Jubiläumsweg | VI | ||||
| 6 | Juniweg | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Maiweg | III | ||||
| 8 | Nordwestkamin | IV | ||||
| 9 | Ritter Eisenbart | VIIIb | ||||
| 10 | Schartenriss | V | ||||
| 11 | ★ Schartenweg | V | ||||
| 12 | Südwestwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 13 | Übergangsweg Variante | IV | ||||
| 14 | Winkelweg Variante | VIIa | ||||
| 15 | Winkelweg | VIIa | ||||
1.5. Kleiner Schartenkopf 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.907990, 14.243583
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Baba Yaga | IXc | ||||
| 3 | Carpe Diem | Xa | ||||
| 4 | Hexeneinmaleins | IXc | ||||
| 5 | Messerrücken | IXb | ||||
| 6 | Schartenweg | IV | ||||
| 7 |
★ Talweg
FA: Hasso Gantze, M.Kühn & M.Schindler, 1984 | VI | 45m, 1 | |||
1.6. Großer Schartenkopf 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.907925, 14.243628
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Alter Weg
with support V | VI | ||||
| 2 | Entchen Jolli | IXb | ||||
| 3 | Hier und Jetzt | Xb | ||||
| 4 | Schluchtriss | VIIc | ||||
| 5 | Talweg | VIIc | ||||
1.7. Frühlingsturm 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.907712, 14.243824
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Abendweg | VI | ||||
| 2 | ★ Alter Weg | VIIa | ||||
| 3 | Bergsprung | III 4 | ||||
| 4 | Größlerweg | VI | ||||
| 5 | Quervariante | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Querweg | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Rauweg | VIIb | ||||
| 8 | Sommerboulder | VIIIc | ||||
| 9 | Spätling | VIIc | ||||
| 10 | Talvariante | VIIc | ||||
| 11 | Alter Weg Variante | VIIb | ||||
| 12 | Größlerweg Variante | VIIa | ||||
1.8. Püschnerturm 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.907344, 14.243972
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Alter Weg
with support IV | VI | ||||
| 2 | Autonomes Feuerwerk | IXb | ||||
| 3 | Brendlerweg | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Delphin | IXb | ||||
| 5 | Dicker Hund | Xa | ||||
| 6 | Emporweg | VIIa | ||||
| 7 | Halb und Halb | VIIIa | ||||
| 8 | Herbsttour | VIIIa | ||||
| 9 | Jubiläumsweg | VIIIa | ||||
| 10 | Märzweg | VIIb | ||||
| 11 |
Neuer Nordwestweg
with support VIIb | VIIc | ||||
| 12 | Neuer Schartenriss | VIIa | ||||
| 13 | Nordwestweg | VI | ||||
| 14 | Nordwestwinkel | VIIa | ||||
| 15 | Ostwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 16 | Pfeilervariante | VIIc | ||||
| 17 | Pfingstweg | VIIa | ||||
| 18 | Purscheweg | VIIa | ||||
| 19 | Schartenriss | VIIb | ||||
| 20 | Südwestrippe | VIIa | ||||
| 21 | Südwestweg | VIIa | ||||
| 22 | Talweg | VIIb | ||||
| 23 |
Tümmler
Topo, Zwischen "Südwestweg" und "Südwestrippe" Kante und Wand (3R) zu Absatz. Beliebig zG FA: Reinhold Geipel, 6 Jun 2021 | IXa | 3 | |||
| 24 | Tunnelweg | V | ||||
| 25 | Vier Jahreszeiten | VIIIc | ||||
| 26 |
Narrenzeit
4m links von "4 Jahreszeiten" Wand (2R) oben ƖinkshaƖtend zum 3.R von "4 Jahreszeiten". Diese zu Absatz (Sanduhr). Linkshaltend Rippe und Wand (2R) zu Kante. Kante zu Absatz. Beliebig zG. FA: Jäschke & Müller, 8 Nov 2020 | VIIIc | 5 | |||
1.9. Schwarzes Horn 57 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.906925, 14.243925
1.10. Abendturm 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.907275, 14.245405
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ !Alter Weg
Von der Scharte linkshaltend zu großem Absatz in der Südwestseite. Westkante zG. FA: Kurt Rost & H. Mucke, 1909 | V | ||||
| 2 | Auferstehung | IXc | 3 | |||
| 3 | Es könnte so einfach sein... | IXb | 5 | |||
| 4 |
Süßer Traum
with support VIIIc | IXa | 2 | |||
| 5 | Abendgruß | IXa | 3 | |||
| 6 | Sieben-Herren-Weg | VIIa | 1 | |||
1.11. Märchenturm 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.906407, 14.246052
descent notes
Abseile 32m
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ !Alter Weg
with support VIIIa. Rechts in der Nordseite Wand und Rinne zu Band. Links queren zu R. (Unterstützt) Wand zu Band (R). Links von Mulde zu Loch. Rechts queren und Riss zG. FA: Helmut Oehme & H. Bieberstein, 1937 | VIIIc | 2 | |||
| 2 |
★ !Spätzünder
with support VIIIa | VIIIc | 3 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Gespensterbahn | IXa | 5 | |||
| 4 |
Elektronisches Märchen
AF XIa FA: Thomas Willenberg & Falk Heinicke, 2011 | XIb | 5 | |||
| 5 |
Geisterkante Erwähnung
Vom 1.R 3,5m rechts queren, stumpfe Kante hoch und links queren zur Rinne. | VIIIc | 3 | |||
| 6 |
★ Geisterkante Heute meist
Zum 1.R über Einstieg "Alter Weg". | VIIIc | 3 | |||
| 7 |
Im Märchenland
AF Xb | Xc | 3 | |||
| 8 |
Gemeinschaftsweg
with support VIIb. Links in der Scharte Riss und Rinne am Massiv zu R. In Überfallstellung (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) unterstützt an R vorbei und Wand zu R. Links queren und Rinne zG. FA: Günter Dietze, M. Kühn, H. Gantze, H. Güldner, G. Nicklisch, H. Müller, H. Walther, H. Nicklisch, H. Winkler, L. Holpuch & E. Merke, 1977 | VIIIa | 3 | |||
| 9 |
Südwand
with support VIIIb, AF IXa. Links in der Scharte Wand erst links., dann rechtshaltend über 2 Bänder zu R. Vom 1. Band (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) Wand und kurzen Riss, dann links queren (R) und Wand zu R. Kante zG. FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Lamm, W. Nolte, G. Müller & H. Schlesinger, 1973 | IXb | 3 | |||
| 10 |
Geisterkante
with support VIIIb. Von Südwesten zu überwölbten Band in der Südwestschmalseite. Gerade zu überwölbten Band. Links queren zu R. (#ausgiebigunterstuetzt) und Rinne (R) zu R. (Unterstützt) linkshaltend zG. FA: Dietrich Hasse, K. Gonda, C. Hasse, H. Großer, R. Protze, E. Pöche & G. Kadner, 1951 | VIIIc | 3 | |||
| 11 |
★★ Geisterkante Ausstiegsvariante
with support VIIIb | VIIIc | 3 | |||
| 12 | Helle Barde | IV 6 | ||||
1.12. Heringsgrundhorn 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.905540, 14.247432
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | II | ||||
| 2 | Direkter Eistanz | VIIIc | ||||
| 3 | Ein Stück bergauf | IXb | ||||
| 4 | Eine Sommernacht | VIIIc | ||||
| 5 | ★ Eistanz | VIIIa | ||||
| 6 | Filzlaus | VIIa | ||||
| 7 | Linke Rinne | V | ||||
| 8 | Nordkamin | II | ||||
| 9 | Nordrinne | II | ||||
| 10 | Ostkamin | III | ||||
| 11 | Ostriss | VI | ||||
| 12 | Südverschneidung | V | ||||
| 13 | Südweg | VIIa | ||||
| 14 | Talseite | VIIIb | ||||
1.13. Hirschquellenturm 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.905174, 14.247870
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Abendrot | IXc | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | 2 | ||||
| 3 | Bergweg | III | ||||
| 4 | Engelszunge | IXc | ||||
| 5 | Mauerblümchen | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Passionsweg | III | ||||
| 7 | Talkamin | III | ||||
| 8 | Talriss | VIIa | ||||
| 9 | Teufelsbraten | IXa | ||||
1.14. Heringsgrundturm 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.905194, 14.245906
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Alter Weg
Von W Kluft zwischen Turm und M über AÖ zu Band an der Ostseite vom Turm. Wand und Rinne, oben Kamin z.G. FA: 1921 | IV | 45m, 2 | |||
| 2 | Steilband | V | ||||
| 3 |
★ Abstieg
Vom M. li. absteigen und re zur Kluft FA: 1972 | IV | ||||
| 4 | Bergvariante | V | ||||
| 5 | Westriss | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Hitzewelle | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Plan B | IXa | ||||
| 8 | Talweg | VIIIb | ||||
| 9 | Schachtelhalm | IXc | ||||
| 10 | Zauberkugel | IXc | ||||
| 11 | Ewiger Regen | IXb | ||||
| 12 | Tropfsteinhöhle | IXc | ||||
| 13 | Schattenspiele | IXb | ||||
| 14 | Diplomarbeit | IXc | ||||
| 15 | Jules Verne | V | ||||
| 16 | Sprung | 4 | ||||
1.15. Feldschmiede 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 50.904949, 14.246307
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Alter Weg
Von N Band nach rechts zu Abs.(nR) und Westkante z.G FA: 1946 | VI | 1 | |||
| 2 | Blasebalg | VIIIa | ||||
| 3 | Filigranarbeit | Xb | ||||
| 4 | Hufeisen | VIIIc | ||||
| 5 | Kappenaktion | VIIc | ||||
| 6 |
Nordweg
with support VI | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Regenkante | VIIIb | ||||
| 8 | Steher | IXa | ||||
| 9 |
Südweg
n Mitte Südwand Rißspur bis zum Ende. Links queren und Rinne z.G. | VIIb | ||||
