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Jungfer

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 16

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Von NW Kamin zur Schulter (2.AÖ). SW-Wand links von feinem Riss zu Ring u. (unterst.) Reibung z.G.

FA: Walter Hünig, O.Perry-Smith & W.Baudisch, 1906

2 m re. vom AW Wand (R) zu gr. Band. Re. Kamin zur Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG.

FA: Harry Grille, K. Hilpert, G. Schmidt, Ulf Schmidt, S. Kranich, B. Adamidis, S. Spörl & K. Müller, 2006

5 m rechts vom AW Rissrinne zu gr. Band. Riss rechts der "Landesgartenschau" zu Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG.

FA: Gert Friedrich & Jens Koschorreck, 2006

FA: Manfred Vogel & H.Heller, 1983

FA: Manfred Vogel & G.Hühnchen, 1985

Von W Kamin in die Scharte. Links der Nordkante an Platten zu Band. Üh. uns Kante zum 1.R. Rechts queren zum 2.R und Rinne über nR zG.

FA: Karl Beier & Otto Nollau, 1913

NW-WEG zum Band. Rechts queren zu R. Über Üh. zu Band, rechts queren und Rinne, zuletzt NW-WEG zG

Wie die Westkante zu 1.Ring, rechtshaltend Wand an Ring vorbei zu Beginn der Strubichrinne.

FA: Steffen Konkol & M.Kresse, 2003

Wie AW Kamin zur Schulter (1.AÖ). Rechts in der SW-Wand feinen Riss 4m hoch, rechts queren und Kante z.G.

FA: 1915

Von W Kamin in die Scharte. Linksh. Wand und Ostkante zu Band. Rechts über Üh. zu gr.SU und zu nR. Reibung zG.

Ca. 15 m links von Zahl 191rechtshaltend Rippe (nR) zu 2. Ring. Wand (R) zu Rinne (4.R). Links Reibung (5.R) zur Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG.

FA: Tobias Passek, Gert Friedrich, Steffen Kranich & Ulf Schmidt, 2006

Riss vom PROMENADENWEG 8m hoch und rechtsanst. über R zu vorspringender Kante. Diese zur Schulter.

FA: 1994

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Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

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