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Bergfalkenturm

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

Approach

Zugang nur von unten aus dem Uttewalder Grund. Zugang zu den Bergwegen nur 50m links in Schlucht, dann rechts auf das Riff.

Ethic inherited from Wehlen

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Anfangs in der Schartenschlucht, dann am Turm Riss und Kamin zu Absatz. Kurzen Kamin zG.

FA: Heinz Kunze & K. Petters, 1954

A.F.: IXc

FA: Jochaim Friedrich & Jürgen Höfer, 1992

AF VIIIb. In der Talseite Rippe zu überwölbten Band. Wand ohne Unterstützung (R), überhängenden Riss und Rinnen zu Band. Nach rechts und Rinne zG.

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Jürgen Höfer, 1996

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Jürgen Höfer, 1991

Vom Beginn des Quergangs Südkante zu Absatz (Schlinge). Rechts queren zur Rinne vom "Südweg". Diesen zG.

FA: Karsten Liebscher, DDjensl & M. Stukenborg, 2007

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIa

Wie "Sprung" zu auffälligem Band. Überfall und rechts Wand (Sanduhr) zG.

Vom Massiv Überfall und kurzen Riss zu Band. Nach links (Norden) und Riss zG.

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