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Description

routes for traditional climbing

Approach

From Litochoro: We take the road to Prionia or Stavros Refuge (Mpountolas). We pass the monastery of s.Dionisios. After 8km we park on the left side of the road with the distinct sign "Dasiki Thesi Zilnia" and the pavilion. Right down of the parking starts the path to the cliff. You can either walk down the slope (around 15-20m in the forest-keep always to the right) or you can abseil with two 60m ropes. The abseil point is on the second/third right turn of the path, on the edge of the cliff. The abseil meets the route "Kalokairino visma/Summer Bolt".

Descent notes

From the top of each route, follow the path to the forest above. Keep to the right direction, but not at the edge of the cliff (there is also a path with sone dangerous points) . The main path is marked with signs and goes to the parking site.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first route found on the cliff as the approach path ends. Bolted anchors, sport pitches. 10-12 quickdraws. No need for trad gear. The top anchor can be built on trees. The route can be easily found in case somebody abseils instead of walking down the approach path. Ideal for hot days: in shade till midday. Topos pictures+info: routes.gr/Zilnia

FA: V.Gravanis & Th.Gerogkiokas

Agathino Stefani-Thorny wreath (VIII A1, 90μ)

The route is the second one found in the crag. After abseil you can see the bolts of "Kalokairino Visma-Summer bolt". A little bit to the left the route starts and after some meters you find the first piton.

R1(25m) 2 pitons 1bolt (after the second piton, keep going left till the bolt) V+..... R2(25m) 6bolts,starts to the left, then goes straight ahead, crux at the end, VIII-.... R3(20m) 12bolts, overhung climbing, VIII A1..... R4(20m) 5bolts, after the last overhung, go left to find the anchor below the trees.

Gear needed: 12-13 express sets, 2x60m ropes (50m may cause some problems in case of mandatory abseil).

All anchors are equipped with 2 bolts with abseil rings.

FA: E.Parousis, B.Papageorgiou & M.Ntaoukas, 2003

Set by Σ. Γουναρίδη - Β. Γεωργιάδη, 1964

FA: Ο. Ιωαννίδη - Ι. Παντούλα - Σ. Γουναρίδη - Α. Σπανούδη, 1965

Forgotten is the next route after Gounaridi-Georgiadi(The classic). They meet at the end of the 3rd pitch of Forgotten and they merge.

After the pillar of The Classic, walk 20-30m and on your right immediately you will see a cave on the rock. There stands R1. First pitch on easy terrain (4, 15m, no bolts).

R2:behind the bushes there is an old bolt, clip it or not. Traverse a little bit to the right and then go straight up for the crux (could be attempted as A1). Many pitons and bolts. After the crux go right and find R2(2bolts) below the big tree.

R3:long but easy pitch, no bolts. Small nuts and friends are very useful. Go till you find the big ramp, where Forgotten and Gounaridi-Georgiadi meet to the same anchor.

Set by A.Spanoudis & S.Gounaridis

Set by Π. Μποτίνη - Σ. Γουναρίδη, 1967

FA: Α. Σπανούδη - Ε. Ελευθεριάδη, 1967

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