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Summary

The first climbing crag at the area of Nestos River.

Description

Trad, long, adventure routes, mainly with loose rocks, but interesting. The 2 ridges are the most famous.

Approach

Follow the path at the end of the road close to river gorge and after 20-30min you arrive at the highest point with great view. Behind you can see the rock wall with 2 characteristic ridges. From here follow the path straight to the wall. For your return the best is to follow the ridge at the upper point with direction to car parking, approx 20-30min. You can find some red marks. There are other alternative descents but not reccomended.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The left ridge as you see the crag from the path. Some step climbing, some scrambling. Most belays are on trees. The crux pitch is at the 4th pitch with 2 variants. The classic is to go left and up to pitons or go right on a bolt. The last pitch is the most beautiful.

Is a Milo's ridge variation. After the 4th belay move right to a terraces with target the characteristic dihedral at the center of the wall. The dihedral is 2 pitches with the necessary pitons.

The right ridge. Not so much famous as the Milos ridge but the 2 easy crack pitches at the end of the route is very nice. Don't detour those!

At the left big wall. Some hard moves, some loose rocks but good protections.

FFA: Archontis & Alkis Karkatselis, 1993

Start just left of the Milo's ridge and goes rightward.

FA: Alkis Karkatselis -, Archontis & Kostas Chionidis, 1994

Ridge variation, for 2 pitches the characteristic dihedral right of the Galani's ridge. Then follow the ridge and exit from the Omorfia tou Milou route.

FFA: Archontis & Kostas Anoixiadis, 1996

Left of Giaponeza route

FFA: Archontis & Christos Papapostolou, 1997

Left of Giaponeza route.

Very beautiful crack for 2 pitches after some scrambling and 2 easy pitches.

FFA: Archontis, Alkis Karkatselis & Alekos Tsilogeorgis

The ridge at the right end of the great wall

3 pitons at the crux make the route easiest.

Toooo vegetated, and very loose.

...at the center of the Great Wall.

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