The Big Wall of Dead´s Gorge is grandiose. It must catch the attention of every climber passing by. We were no exception many years ago, but it took us until 2019 to open first routes there. The wall is about 80 meters high, but only the first pitches are done. Routes in the left and center part of the wall are accessible from big shelf 2-3 meters wide. The access to the shelf is protected with bolts and there are bolts on the shelf for the belayer. The routes are very well protected with bolts, rappel stations at the end of every route are made of two anchors connected with chain and with steel biner.

Limestone in this part of canyon is of good quality, however, you can see on the material that it is influenced by a combination of salty air, windy and rainy conditions in the winter period and very hot weather in summer. Limestone is mostly smoothe, not sharp. Your fingers will be happy with this material.

Exposition: The wall is situated to the east, so after 13.30 it is in shade. During summer 2019 it was possible to climb to 9.30 a.m., then take a rest a swim in small lakes lying at the bottom of the canyon and then go again to climb in the afternoon. There is one big stone next to the lakes, we created there a few short routes just for fun while resting.


Park your car at the parking place which is in the middle distance between Zakros village and Kato Zakros, close to the path to the Gorge of Dead that is going there from the side. Go by walk to the bottom of the canyon and then turn left ( direction to the Zakros village). After 200-250 meters turn again to the left, cross the creek and follow small red marks. You climb the slope until you reach the crag named Big Wall.


History timeline chart

The first climbing took place in summer 2019 when Petr Fiala started to bolt routes.


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Grade Route

Bouldery start of the route on small crimps with one long reach. Then very nice technical climbing on good holds and pockets. You have to climb onto the big shelf to the beginning of the climb.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

Continuous on good holds, the crux is in the lower part with the short fingery section. The pitch starts at the shelf.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

Climbing on tufas and on vertical wall, continuous on small holds and pockets. The pitch starts at the shelf.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

This is an open project, climbing on tufas in overhanging face. The route is completely prepared for climbing.

Difficult fingery start in a vertical wall, then easy climbing in the middle section on big holes and pockets. The higher you are, the harder this route is. Last four meters are the most difficult with some long moves on good pockets.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

Vertical climbing in the lower part of the line, slightly overhanging in the upper part. Some difficult moves in the final part of the route to the chain.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

Nice route in almost vertical terrain with small holds and pockets that goes to the same first anchor like "My way" and you can also continue up to the second anchor as "My way" goes.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

The enjoyable and easier lower part to the first anchor that is in about 18 meters high, grade 6a. Then the line continues another 12 meters in large overhang with big holds, the crux is in the final part of the route leading to the second anchor. Very nice, airy climbing. You need at least 14 quickdraws and 70 m rope.

FA: Petr Fiala & Petr Fiala, Aug 2019

Solo or top rope from sling anchor. Climb through the weakness to the left finishing through a short steep move. May have been solod before, crag developer to verify.

FA: Aug 2020

Top rope or solo to sling anchor. The easiest line. Start in the left weakness then follow the jus right to top out

FA: Aug 2020

Solo or top rope. Climb the right weakness into the cave

FA: Aug 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Bugada

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9782952637817

A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.

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