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Description

One of the classic crags of the island and very popular with strong climbers as it holds many testpieces. Slightly overhanging with or without tufas, caves with hard and very hard routes. Easier but worthwhile routes as well. Many routes below 6c are getting really polished. Grading can feel a tad more solid than in other crags of the island.

Access issues inherited from Armeos

When you pass a gate on your approach close it behind you! Also try to stay on the established approach paths.

Approach

Scooters take the uphill road starting at the sharp turn at Kasteli and park at the big boulder. [37.011646, 26.943074]

With bicycle (8 minute ride form Masouri): Ride to the abandoned house [37.0131, 26.9423], lock your bike to the fence and follow the rough path uphill for a minute. Turn right and follow the road to a big 5 metre boulder [37.011646, 26.943074].

Follow the path that begins at the boulder and continue uphill for 10 minutes to the big obvious wall facing north-west.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • Use established paths and close gates behind you
  • Leave no trash behind
  • Use your own gear for toproping
  • Use clippable anchor gear only for stripping the quickdraws

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Quite different to the rest of the wall and rather old-schoolish on vertical and later slabby, grey rock.

Technical climbing, with a strong crux and a pleasant finish .

Solid tufa action at the grade. Pumpy but possible kneebars and stemming. Not so obvious top section.

An atypically technical (for Odyssey) line. Double bolts at the anchor need to be replaced with a proper anchor.

Warning Fixed Gear: Due for rebolting?

Tufas and a crux on pockets.

A short but worthwhile route with two fundamentally different ways of climbing it. Only one fits the grade.

A popular route and with an early, techy crux. Then gym like on unusual, hidden jugs.

Open project for a long time until Alex moved the anchor lower.

Set: Nicolas Favresse

FFA: Alex Megos, Oct 2014

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2009

FA: F Malosti, A Longo & A Sgvazzotti, 2002

Start in the back left of the little cave. Up steeply on big jugs to a contorted finish.

Easyish climbing leads to a technical demanding crux and some power moves after, save some power for the end.

FA: A Di Bari + team, 1997

A technical and delicate slab and face.

Pumpy with a stiff crux on smooth holds.

An impressive overhang at the top of the vertical pillar. Bouldery crux!

Classy steep line on big holds. Some holds are getting a little polished.

Technical crux and somewhat polished.

A classy warm up.

Easy slab that steepens a bit at the end.

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